Advantages and Disadvantages of Preformed Ponds :
courtesy to : www.everything-ponds.com/preformed-plastic-ponds.html
Advantages of Preformed Ponds :
The main advantage of a preformed plastic pond is that they fold up for easy transport, yet spring in to shape quickly and easily when unpacked. When purchasing, there are numerous shapes and sizes available and installation is quite straightforward as long as you remember a few important tips. Please see the section on installation below for more information.
Known Disadvantages :
There are however some disadvantages to preformed plastic ponds over traditional liners, or other types of preformed options. The main disadvantage is that preformed ponds are usually quite small and shallow compared to custom-built liner ponds. The smaller size can have repercussions later including:
- The Concrete :
A concrete pond is more permanent than a liner pond. This can be a real advantage if the pond is designed and built properly but a real nightmare if it is not. The inside contour can be built so the pond has smooth flowing walls leading from the top to the bottom drain. This can make the bottom easier to keep clean. Many professional pond builders prefer to build concrete ponds because they can draw professional help from the pool industry to install the rebar and gunite or shotcrete. Finding qualified people with a lot of experience installing liner ponds is hard. In general it is easier to install rockwork on a concrete pond compared to a liner pond if you want the rockwork mortared in place.
2. Hard material ( Concrete and plastic ) :
Hard materials because it is not flexible like liner ..
Concrete , Plastic or glass are normally used
Liner or concrete pond ?
In short, they both have their own advantages.
courtesy to : sacramentokoi.com/which-pond-is-better-concrete-or-liner/
The disadvantage of a concrete pond is that they cost more to build. This added expense may be off set to some extent when you consider the value a well built pond may add to property value. Most bank appraisers consider a concrete pond similar to a concrete swimming pool, whereas, they consider a liner pond similar to a portable pool which has less value. An additional disadvantage of a concrete pond is that for the first three to five years they tend to have a higher than normal ph. If a high ph is of concern to you this can easily be overcome by letting the concrete cure and then coating the pond surface up to the water line with a rubber base paint or epoxy.
- Liner :
A 45 mil rubber liner pond is not as permanent, which can actually be a benefit. If the pond has some design flaws that you need to change or if you need to remove the pond, a rubber liner is much easier to work with. This is a big reason most “do it yourself” pond builders choose a liner pond over a concrete pond. A liner pond is also less expensive to build and a liner pond tends to maintain a more neutral ph. The rubber liner creates a very soft surface for the Koi but even when a liner pond is installed properly you will have a number of minor folds in the liner surface.
Once the pond is filled with water these folds become barely visible. Rock work around the edge of a liner pond can be a challenge if you don’t want the liner to show. The reason is because the rock work will need to extend down into the water and the mortar for the rock work will not stick to the liner. (To solve this problem see Advantage Pond Design Plans under Rock Work.)
The problem of cutting a hole in a liner for the bottom drains, jets, etc. is easily overcome with the proper drains and bulkhead fittings. When installed properly a liner pond can easily be leak free for many years.
Ponds Hard materials construction or shaping types :
1- Concrete Ponds.
Concrete ponds must have a physical barrier between the concrete and water to prevent lime in the concrete negatively affecting the pond’s water chemistry. Clearpond Pondshield starter or Pondshield Professional is ideal for this purpose. Pond liner can also be used for sealing concrete ponds. Concrete can be very unforgiving when it comes to installing the plumbing and electrical work and it can be quite expensive to alter a concrete pond once built.
Concrete ponds must be cured before they are safe for fish.
courtesy to : www.petcha.com/concrete-pond/
Concrete ponds can be "cured" and made safe for fish without any special coatings. Via Aaron Vowels/Flickr
I have been in the fishkeeping hobby for several years now, having had more than my fair share of luck and a few setbacks too. Having kept tanks that range in volume from 35 to 150 gallons, I now feel ready to move outdoors with my fishkeeping. Over the last year I have designed a pond that will be 12 feet long, 8 feet wide and 4 feet deep. The pond will be filtered by a trickle filter (2 feet square by 4 feet deep). The pond will be constructed of poured concrete and brick (I know most ponds use liners, but that’s not for me). The only thing that is holding up progress is difficulty in finding something that is inert and safe for fish to coat the inside of the pond walls. I live in Canada and realize that product names may be different, but any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Concrete ponds can be “cured” and made safe for fish without any special coatings. Keep the newly constructed pond filled for a week, then drain and refill. After two weeks, drain and refill again. After three weeks, drain and refill again. Wait one additional week and drain and refill a fourth time.
The process is most effective if your water tends to be acidic: a pH under 6.5 or so. You can also aid the process by using standard swimming pool chemicals (such as sodium bisulfate) to lower the pH to below 6. In either case, the water changes are still necessary.
After this break-in period you can run a test. Wait a week after the final pond refill and then test the pH. Then place some fresh tap water in a bowl and let it sit overnight to allow oxygen and carbon dioxide levels to stabilize. Check the pH the following morning. If the reading is the same or within 0.2 units of the pond water, you can try a live fish test.
Put four to six feeder goldfish in the pond, taking care to equalize water temperature and pH differences between the pond water and their original water. Watch them carefully for several weeks. If they remain hardy and active, eat vigorously and do not exhibit strange behaviors, such as darting, listing or hovering, then the pond is ready for other fish.
However, there are two basic problems with this approach. First, it takes a long time. All totaled the test period is 10 weeks — virtually the entire summer in the northern half of the U.S. and in Canada. The second problem is that it may take much longer and many additional water changes depending on numerous variables. One never knows what will happen until it has happened.
Much of the waiting and uncertainty can be eliminated by using commercial, fish-safe pond sealers. These products might seem expensive — and it takes a lot of sealer to cover a large pond — but they are worth it.
A gallon of HERCO Liquid Neoprene, for example, runs about $80 (U.S.) and covers about 80 square feet in three coats. In general, a good seal usually requires at least three coats, so do not skimp. Your pond will need 3 to 4 gallons. I suggest buying extra because nothing is more frustrating than running out of seal the weekend you intend to fill the pond.
There are a variety of rubber- and enamel-based products also available. Again, in gallon sizes they cover about 70 to 80 square feet in three coats. These are sold by water garden suppliers under local brand names. If you cannot find any in your area try calling Waterford Gardens in New Jersey, at (201) 327-0337, or Sherer Water Gardens in New York, at (516) 261- 7432.
I would not risk the possibility of poisoning the pond (the fish) by using ordinary swimming pool sealing paints. There is no information about toxicity to fish, and some of them do incorporate toxic chemicals to inhibit algae and mildew.
Which is pond is better; a rubber liner pond, or a concrete pond?
Design A Pond- Liner vs Concrete- Build a Pond- How To
Pond Construction with Concrete
courtesy to : www.pondtrademag.com/pond-construction-with-concrete/
By Demi Fortuna, Atlantic Water Gardens
Cement Through the Ages
Concrete and mortar have been favored by pond and fountain builders since the Roman Empire, and the formula has changed little in the past 2000 years. Limestone and clay are mixed, heated and ground to the silky powder we call cement. Concrete is made by adding water, sand and gravel to the cement, while mortar refers to a finer sand and cement mixture used for bonding brick and stone.
Our modern formula was first cooked up on a stove in 1824 by British inventor Joseph Aspdin, a real ‘kitchen chemist.’ He named it Portland cement for its similarity to stone from the nearby Isle of Portland, but it’s basically the same stuff that built Ancient Rome.
Properly mixed and applied, under the right conditions concrete can last a very long time – the intact, magnificent roof of the Pantheon is still the world’s largest unreinforced concrete dome almost two thousand years after it was built. Roman aqueducts and fountains built two millennia ago are still in daily use today. That said, concrete is NOT a “set it and forget it” material. There are a number of requirements to be met if it is to last.
Cement and Water
Portland is hydraulic cement, meaning it hardens and cures upon contact with water, but the exact process is so complicated that we don’t fully understand it even today. The proper amount of water is critical in mixing concrete – too little won’t fully hydrate the mix, leading to an uneven cure and too much will weaken it. The curing process doesn’t stop with mixing, either. Concrete needs to be kept evenly moist for as long as feasible after pouring to develop its full strength, at least 3 days, but it will continue to strengthen for a year or more if kept moist.
Untreated concrete is usually quite porous, absorbing and allowing water to slowly seep through microscopic spaces, but it can be made highly resistant to the passage of water by using fine aggregates and waterproofing additives to close the pores. This makes it an ideal material for ponds and waterfalls in warm weather climates, where prolonged freezes aren’t an issue. In colder areas water trapped inside the concrete can freeze, expanding from within and causing cracking and spalling. Ice sheets on the surface of the water can force walls apart, causing structural damage and leaks. Damage from frost is usually progressive if left unattended, so temperatures below 32°F are a cause for concern and require different strategies than warm weather water features.
Foundations for Concrete Structures :
Concrete has tremendous compressive strength, capable of supporting thousands of pounds per square inch, but doesn’t bend or stretch very well, so the most critical requirement of any concrete structure is a proper foundation, set on undisturbed soil that will not move or settle. In colder climes footings must be set below the frost line to avoid movement during freeze-thaw cycles, usually 3 to 4 feet below grade.
That may sound very deep, but if we’re considering the expense of concrete to start with, then we’re generally talking about a more elaborate pond, perhaps a koi pond where the deeper the water is, the better. Most koi ponds are deeper than the frost line, into undisturbed soil, so the depth of the footing is often of no great concern. We’ll usually dig out the pond as carefully as possible first, leaving the walls vertical, then we’ll excavate the trench for the footing at least 8˝ deeper than the rest of the pond, always below the frost line and at least 12˝ wide, to provide a solid, stable base that’s a little wider than the walls.
We pour the footing level and set some kind of ‘key’ to lock the walls to the footings. This can be as simple as regularly spaced rebar rods set into the wet concrete, or a groove in the top of the footing that the wall can lock into. An 8˝ x12˝ footing may sound like overkill, but it ensures the walls will stay straight and solid and support any load likely to be set on them, and with 8˝ walls the 12˝ wide footing provides a 4˝ shelf that the floor will key into later.
There are three different ways I know of to waterproof the concrete pond, all starting with the solid foundation just described.
The first method is the conventional way to pour a fully waterproof concrete shell. The pond is excavated, a footing poured, the appropriate reinforcement rods and wire set in place and forms built. Latex or acrylic waterproofing solutions are added to the mixing water, to close the pores in the concrete and eliminate seepage through the walls. The concrete must be carefully mixed and vibrated into place to eliminate air bubbles, and the additives can be costly, but in warm climates where frost isn’t an issue this method works very well. Although the entire shell of a good-sized pond can be poured all at once by an experienced crew, we prefer doing the footing first, then pouring the walls, then the floor, sealing the seams between the three elements with waterstop gasketing. The flexible gasket is set on the footing before the wall is poured on top of it, sealing the joint from the inside as the gasket swells on contact with water. We’ll place an expansion joint vertically on the inside of the wall and a second gasket on that 4˝ shelf at the base of the wall before the floor is poured, to form an elastic seal that allows for expansion and contraction of the floor. The coping is set on top of the walls with a simple, strong, waterproof mortar made by mixing one 45lb. bag of thinset to two 70lb. bags of Type S mortar, a great mix I first heard about online from Doug Hoover of Aquamedia (many thanks for giving this great formula away for free!) This method of pond construction is effective, permanent and fully waterproof as long as there are no cracks, so it’s ideal for the Southern States and the West Coast. It isn’t optimal where freeze-thaw cycles are a concern.
The second method dispenses with the cost and additional labor of integral concrete waterproofing by applying a waterproofing coating on the inner surfaces of the pond after the shell is constructed, and it works with either poured shells or with cinder block construction. There are many types of coatings, ranging from liquid EPDM rubber compounds to two-part epoxies to cement-based slurries to simple paints, so there’s a waterproofing compound for every job. The more elastic preparations bridge small cracks and even tolerate a small amount of movement, so they can be very forgiving and are often used to waterproof leaking existing concrete ponds. The key to these applications is proper surface preparation, so the manufacturer’s instructions must be strictly followed. The more stable the base, the better the coating will perform, so this method of pond construction also works best where winters are mild.
Both of these methods are well known and the steps involved in their construction well documented, so I won’t go into further detail, but unless you’re planning on draining the water feature for the winter, we’ve found neither is ideal in harsh winter country. Where we build, in the mildest area of New York, a hundred freeze-thaw cycles is a gentle winter, temps regularly visit the 20’s and we can stay below freezing for weeks. We needed a way to permanently waterproof concrete regardless of weather, so we developed a simple way to construct a concrete pond so it will always stay completely sealed under all conditions. We combine flexible and concrete liners. Burying a flexible liner inside a concrete wall offers advantages over either method alone. In contrast to straight concrete, seams and small cracks cannot leak, so integrated gaskets, waterproofing additives and coatings are unnecessary, and freeze-thaw cycles are no longer a concern. In contrast to liner ponds, the waterproof EPDM or PVC membrane is fully encapsulated between geotextile layers surrounded by concrete, permanently protected from sunlight, weather, wear and vandalism, so it’s ideal for harsh conditions or public water feature construction sites.
Although liner and geotextile is an additional expense over plain concrete or cinderblock, it is usually comparable to the cost of acrylic additives or two-part coatings, and typically less expensive than sprayed polyurea foam, and it involves little additional technical expertise. This isn’t brain surgery. On the contrary, this simple, obvious method is easier and more tolerant of adverse conditions or less-than-ideal preparation, so we’ve found it adapts well to any jobsite.
Hybrid Liner/Concrete Pond Construction
We tried, with some success, to simply skim-coat EPDM liner with a couple of inches of cement, but found the simple way wasn’t so simple – the liner was vulnerable to penetration from sharps in the ground, tree roots and even shifting soils that settled and exposed the membrane, not to mention those hideous destructive juggernaut, rodents (hint: Chip and Dale do bite).
Nowadays, we’ll build outer walls on a solid footing just like the first two methods, either pouring or mortaring cinder block in place; the type and thickness depend on the application. If we’re going to pour the walls, the soil can serve as the outer form for the pour if we’re careful and cut the walls vertical.
If we’re going to use block we make the excavation a little wider all the way around so there’s a little room to work: we’ll backfill after the walls are set. We always use galvanized wall reinforcement, like Durawall, between our courses of cinderblock and we fill each course with concrete – the small additional expense adds tremendous strength and resistance to displacement. The walls don’t come all the way to the level of the water surface; we stop 8-10˝ below the intended water level to create a Rock Shelf for the natural rock coping to come. Once the walls are in, we backfill and level the soil behind them to create a broad shelf for the coping (and any Perimeter Bogs we might install behind the coping).
We’ll be pouring the floor last, but we need to grade the floor out now so we can cover the entire excavation – floor, walls and Rock Shelf – with a non-woven 6oz. geotextile, leaving plenty of extra to pull up behind coping and bogs to above water level. Our waterproof liner, usually 45mil EPDM, goes over the geotextile, again leaving enough above the walls to cover the shelf then come up another foot to well above the water line. We could cover the liner directly with concrete at this point, but we’ve found it’s both safer and much easier to cover the liner with another layer of geotextile, not just for protection, but because cement sticks to it like crazy, even vertically.
The final step is to cover the liner/geotextile ‘sandwich’ completely. Depending on the job, we may build both inner and outer walls of 4˝ block, or spray cement stucco over the geotextile, 3/8˝ at a time, with our little Tirolessa sprayer that we absolutely love for smaller jobs. Finally, we dump out a rich, fiber-reinforced mix on the floor a wheelbarrow at a time and trowel the sides and bottom smooth, working our way out as we go. We leave at least 3˝ on the floor and 2˝ on the walls, and the ‘gorilla hair’ type poly fibers help keep the cement in place even if it cracks or crazes on the surface.
Consider creating a design or covering the floor with pebbles if the job warrants a special touch – it’s always appreciated, even if it’s rarely seen after the pond grows in. The coping goes in last, with the largest stones mortared in with that 140lb mortar/40lb thinset mix.
For koi ponds, we lay in smaller stones dry in front of Perimeter Bogs, simple gravel beds 6 to 8˝ deep on 2 to 3-foot wide areas of the Rock shelf with the liner pulled up at the outer edge, so water can filter in and get filtered by the roots. Look up Active Bog Filtration for some really cool ideas to keep koi ponds algae-free.
There isn’t enough room on these pages to go into greater detail, but I hope I’ve given you the idea that concrete can be a great option.
In warmer areas concrete ponds:
• can be built and waterproofed many different ways, so they’re easily adaptable to most sites; • provide strong, lasting, virtually limitless structure regardless of soil conditions; • can be shaped and smoothed to make cleaning easier and safer than liner ponds; • properly constructed and waterproofed, are very low maintenance; • offer resistance to damage and vandalism that bare liner, or even gravel-bottom ponds cannot match.
In colder climates, using a membrane buried in the concrete shell to waterproof the pond offers all of the previous advantages, and is impervious to leaking from cracking and crazing that’s almost inevitable where winter holds an icy grip. Maintenance is even lower than in the warm weather ponds, since there’s no coating to scratch or wear off and settling cracks do no harm, and the liners can last virtually forever protected by their stony armor.
There’s no reason to shy away; concrete is far easier to use than ever before, thanks to advances in additive technology and delivery systems, and adding an impermeable liner makes ponds that are literally bulletproof. We’ve used this technique for ponds from 250 to 10000 gallons, and I’m pretty sure it’s adaptable to much more than I’ve run into. Give concrete construction a try next time you need a long-lasting, low maintenance, virtually indestructible pond.
Contact me at with questions; I’d be delighted to help.
2- Plastic Preformed Ponds :
Plastic preformed ponds are ideal for the back yard novice. You need few tools and they can be installed with little effort. Plastic is tough which means you don’t have to worry too much about sharp objects penetrating the pond. Levels are easily achieved when installing preformed ponds by using a spirit level across the pond walls. Preformed ponds are also handy for renters, as you may take them with you when you leave.
What The Advantages Of Preformed Pond Liner Installation :
Are you having some ideas to build a pond, yet you do not know what to do about it nor where to start? There is no need for you to worry though, I am going to show you what things for you to do along the way and the only thing you need is stick around with me a little bit while finding out what preformed pond liner is. It is kind of right as you mention that there are plenty ways of pond building you could use and each of them has their own characteristics, but for those who are looking for something easy to install and affordable, preformed pond liner should be on the top of the list. What do you know about it?
A pond is amazing addition of home decor. It is a good spot where you could spend more times sitting in porch enjoying the nature. Build one is complicated since many things for you to take into considerations. Fulfill the job will take times and most of the time, people choose to go with professional contractor. Indeed, it offers convenience, but you know that you have to spend more money on this kind of matter and that is the main reason why I suggest you to utilize preformed type of pond liner when it comes to pond making process. More and more people use this kind of option as it offers so many benefits. It is easy to apply and you do not have to spend a lot of times dealing with it.
Generally, preformed pond liners are made of fish-friendly vinyl or fiberglass. They have various sizes, shapes, and capacities to choose from. It is possible for you to make everything much easier because you just have to dig them into the ground.
Gallery of What The Advantages Of Preformed Pond Liner Installation
It's more difficult to create a proper ecological balance in a small pond, which can lead to poor water quality.
Shallow water is more prone to over heating which creates problems for fish and promotes pesky algae growth.
It's usually not possible to keep traditional pond goldfish and koi due to the shallow depth and small size.
There's not as much room for things like waterfalls, plants and aquarium fish without over crowding.
We have heard reports that some brands are prone to cracking.
A Preformed Plastic Pond
Keeping the above in mind, preformed liners aren't all bad. If your main goal is just to create a small pond in your backyard to plant some water lilies, or to add a small focal point to your garden without a lot of expense or work, then a preformed plastic pond will likely work fine. In fact, if going with this approach, instead of adding a pump and filter to keep your water clean, you would probably be fine just adding some floating oxygenating plants and other plant life to filter the water naturally. For more information on pond plants, please see our page on pond plants.
On the flip side, if you plan on adding a large waterfall and lots of fish that will require pumpsand filters, you may want to consider building a more advanced pond out of a flexible pond liner to get a little extra depth, size and flexibility with regards to design.
If you still want the convenience of a preformed shape and no folds in the liner, then maybe a box-welded liner is right for you. A box-welded liner is made by heat welding flat liner panels into a 3D 'box'.
Rectangular Box Welded Pond Liner Insert (Flexible) .
please see the image on the right or the box-welded polypropylene liners in our store.
Circular Box Welded Pond Liner Insert (Flexible) :
Other websites :
How to Install a Rigid Liner - The Home Depot
Above Ground pond