Thick-tailed geckos :
Collecting Thick Tail Gecko Eggs
underwoodisaurus milii (synonym, Nephrurus milii ) is a species of gecko in the family Carphodactylidae. The species is commonly known as the thick-tailed or barking gecko, referring to its distinctive plump tail and sharp, barking defensive call.
Scientific classification :
Binomial name :
(Bory de Saint-Vincent, 1823)
Phyllurus miliiBory de Saint-Vincent, 1823
Cyrtodactylus Nilii [sic]Gray, 1831 (ex errore)
Gymnodactylus milii— Loveridge, 1934
Underwoodisaurus milii— Bustard, 1970
Nephrurus milii— Bauer, 1990
Underwoodisaurus milii— Cogger, 2014
The specific name, milii, is in honor of French sailor and naturalist Pierre Bernard Milius.
Thick-tailed geckos are reddish-brown with bands of white and yellow spots and paler underbelly. They usually grow to 120–140 mm in length. Their original tail is black with several pale bands, however regenerated tails have little pattern. When threatened, they will arch their backs and "bark". Thick-tailed geckos are found in rocky outcrops across southern Australia, and are slightly more cold-tolerant than many other Australian gecko species. They are nocturnal, and shelter underneath rocks or in burrows during the day. They feed on insectsand small vertebrates.
Unusually for reptiles, this species forms aggregations in their retreat sites during the day. The reasons for this are unknown. However, it has been shown that this behavior results in a higher aggregate thermal
inertia (they stay warmer) than would be found in solitary geckos of this and related kinds in similar
circumstances. In the same source, it was suggested that aggregating for physiological benefits may precede the development of other kinds of social behavior.
This species, and some other species of gecko have the unusual habit of licking their eyes after eating, presumably to keep the eyeshield clean.
They are found in southern regions of the Australia.
Their distribution in Western Australia is throughout the southwest, the goldfields, wheatbelt, and nullarbor regions to the east, and to Shark Bay in the north. They are also found at the Houtman Abrolhos and the Archipelago of the Recherche.
The species has not been assessed for the IUCN Red List, nor the Australian EPBC Act, and may be kept as a pet with the appropriate license in at least some states of Australia.
For the external links , refrences click here to read the full wikipedia article
Thick-Tailed Gecko Care
Thick tailed geckos care articles :
1- Australian Barking Gecko Care Sheet
BY MARCIA MCGUINESS
Australian Barking Gecko (Underwoodisaurus milii)
The scientific name for the Thick-tailed gecko is Underwoodisaurus milii, and they are also referred to barking geckos. They are members of the Gekkonidae-- or Gecko family. Thick-tailed geckos are communal lizards native to Southern Australia. They are terrestrial geckos, or ground dwelling, from varied areas from wet coastal areas, leaf-covered forests, dry woodlands, to arid scrubland consisting of hard-pack sandy soil. They live in sheltered crevices in rocks or under loose bark at bases of trees. Thick-tailed geckos are "nocturnal," hunting for food at night, and are generally less active during the day.
Thick-tailed geckos are medium-sized lizards with varying body color from dark to light brown pigment, to gold and orange, with aberrant patterns of white to yellow raised tubercles, and a dense band of these spots around the neck. The tail is thick and broad tapering to a point. Juveniles are slow growers, and can take up to six months to accurately sex, and usually reach adult size in 18 months. The average size of a full-grown adult is up to 4-5” snout to tail tip, and 20-25 grams in weight.
As a general rule, allow a minimum 12 x 12 inches of surface area per adult thick-tailed gecko. These geckos like to live in group colonies and hide in cave-like dwellings kept on the warm side of their enclosure (see Heating below). Adult males should not be housed together in the same vivarium or they may fight and injure each other. A single male can be kept with several females, and several females can share the same enclosure. Do NOT house adult thick-tailed geckos with babies or any other reptile species.
All reptiles are cold-blooded and rely on the temperature of their surrounding environment to keep warm or cool. Use an under tank (UTH) heater on one side only of the thick-tailed gecko's enclosure, thus allowing them to move back and forth within the enclosure to adjust their own body temperature. This is known as thermal regulation, and it is critical for their metabolism, digestion, and immune systems. The ideal temperature for Thick-tailed Geckos is around 80-85°F on the floor surface of the warm side warm side of their enclosure, and normal room temperature (around 70-74°) on the cool side. Using UTH’s is recommended instead of overhead heat sources since they utilize the heat absorbed from the sun in the soil and rocks of their natural habitat to aid in their digestion.
Use a 1”-2” layer of a mixture of fine 50% non-silica sand and 50% sifted peat moss in the bottom of the enclosure. Keep an area of the cool side slightly moist by misting with water 2-3 times a week.
Unlike most other reptiles that bask in the sun to keep warm and to assimilate Vitamin D from natural sunlight, Thick-tailed Geckos are mainly nocturnal so they do not require special lighting. Keep in mind that additional overhead lighting will raise the temperature in the enclosure. Be aware that Thick-tailed Geckos' eyes are very sensitive and their eyesight is poor in bright light. Never expose your gecko to direct sunlight.
Thick-tailed geckos will tolerate moderate handling. When you must handle your gecko, it is best to slowly offer your hand, kept low with your palm up, before picking them up. Avoid reaching down from over their head to grab them because they may become startled thinking you are a predator coming down to attack them. Always handle your Thick-tailed Gecko with care, and never grab it by the tail. Like all lizards, when they are attacked or threatened they can "drop" their tails. When a lizard loses its tail, it becomes vulnerable to disease and infection until it grows a new one. Thick-tailed Geckos will eventually grow new tails, but the regenerated ones are never quite as nice as the original.
Reptiles shed their skin on regular basis, and Thick-tailed Geckos should molt about every 2-4 weeks. Unlike some gecko species, Thick-tails do not eat their shed skin. It is extremely important that ALL the skin comes off, especially from the eyes (eyecaps) and toes, as geckos can lose their digits to infection if the skin does not completely shed. Soaking your Thick-tailed Gecko's feet in 1-2 inches of warm water and then using a Q-tip will help remove any residual skin from their toes, and a Q-tip with mild saline solution or warm water will help take it off of their eyes. Be very gentle! If shedding is a problem for your Thick-tailed Gecko, it may be necessary to keep the cool side substrate more moist, or placing a damp paper towel inside their hide.
Thick-tailed Geckos are voracious eaters feeding mainly eat live crickets and roach nymphs. Be careful not to feed them anything larger than about 3/4 the size of their heads to prevent choking. Babies should be fed 3-4 small crickets or roaches every other day until they reach about 2 inches in length, then larger prey every other day until they become full-grown in about 12 -18 months. Adults can be fed 5-6 larger crickets or roaches every 3 days. Giving your gecko a variety of foods is recommended, but Thick-tail geckos are not inclined to eat from bowls. They will lick water droplets from the walls of the cool side of their enclosure after misting. If no misting, then a water bowl should be made available.
Food items must be "dusted" with a mixture of ultra-fine calcium powder every 2 or 3 feedings, and reptile vitamins once a week. Obtain commercial reptile calcium power and vitamins such as Sticky-Tongue "Miner-All," RepCal, Zoo-Med, or Fluker products. Put calcium powder in a zip-lock bag or commercial cricket duster and "dust" live food items prior to feeding by shaking them gently in the bag or container until they are coated. Vitamins should be given weekly using the same method. The health of your Thick-tailed Gecko is dependent on the proper supplementation of calcium and vitamins in their diet; otherwise, serious diseases can result. Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD) is caused by calcium deficiency, and can permanently disfigure or ultimately kill your gecko.
Gut Loading :
Live crickets should be fed nutritious food like pieces of whole grain cereal, oatmeal, squash, pumpkin, sweet potatoes, collard greens, and a slice of red potato for moisture. Roaches should be fed a high-protein diet like Ferret food.
Regardless of where you get your thick-tailed Gecko it is critical that when you get any new addition to your gecko colony, the new gecko(s) must be quarantined from any of your existing reptiles for at least 30 days, but 90 days is preferred. Countless reptiles have suffered and died needlessly as a result of one gecko infected with disease or parasites and transmitting it to others.
2- Care Tips For The Australian Barking Gecko :
BY MARCIA MCGUINESS
Let's imagine you are out in the early evening as the sun sets in the coastal area of southern Australia, strolling in scrubland with copses of eucalyptus trees, when you notice movement on the side of the trail on a rock surrounded by leaf debris. Slowly, you approach for a better look, getting the camera ready for a photo opportunity in case it turns out to be one of Australia’s wildlife treasures.
Upon careful and close observation, you find a small, maroon-brown lizard with large, doe-like eyes, feet with clawed toes that resemble those of a bird, an unusual pointed spear-shaped tail that is quite thick at the base, and a body covered with an array of raised white tubercles. As you point your camera to zoom in the lens, the little lizard suddenly turns in the blink of an eye and barks at you! Click! You got the image and preview it on your camera’s screen, wondering, "What is this”?
These geckos like to live in group colonies and hide in concealed dwellings kept on the warm side of their enclosure, so a cave-like shelter should be provided.
What’s In a Name?
The Australian barking gecko, also known as the Australian thick-tailed gecko, has undergone a roller coaster ride in taxonomy, having been reclassified 22 times since its discovery in 1823. Its scientific name, most commonly recognized as Underwoodisaurus milii (pronounced under-wood-ee-sore-us mill-ee-eye) was overturned to Nephrurus milii in 1990, back to U. milii in 2000, again to N. milii in 2007, and is currently referred to as Underwoodisaurus milii, once again since 2011. Still loosely considered a knob-tailed gecko by most breeders and keepers, one name that commonly identifies this unique gecko is simply "milii.” In spite of the numerous efforts to figure out how to appropriately label them and properly pronounce their scientific name, these spunky little geckos remain unaffected by identity crisis—they know exactly who they are!
There are two major species of Underwoodisaurus—the most common is the western form (U. milii) and the less common is the eastern form (U. husbandi). Populations of barking geckos are found in a range of habitats, including wet coastal low-woody vegetation; shrubby, sclerophyll (leather-leaf) forests; rocky arid scrubland; and hills in eucalyptus woodland in the southern coastal regions of eastern New South Wales, and throughout southern Australia to western Australia. Available range maps are varied, and it might be speculated that the two species may overlap at some point thereby creating natural intergrades.
It is not uncommon to find barking geckos in rocky crevices and under vegetation debris in aggregate groups consisting of several adults, including multiple males, along with juveniles. It is theorized that the benefit of huddling in colonies helps in maintaining suitable body temperatures in order to avoid extreme lows at nighttime and highs during daytime by slowing their body’s heating and cooling rates.
Keep in mind that barking geckos are avid climbers, so secure a cover for their enclosure.
Small and Attractive
Barking geckos are generally nocturnal, terrestrial lizards. Adults can reach a snout-to-vent length of approximately 4 inches, with a tail length of close to that, and adults can weigh an average of 14 to 20 grams, with some specimens weighing as much as 25 grams. The eastern form (U. hubandi) is typically slightly smaller. Their clawed feet are generally bird-like, with long slender digits, and their dark, banded tail is spear-head shaped, with a thick pad of stored fat at the base, tapering to a point at the end. The underside of the body is white, and the dorsal surface colors range from dark maroon through reddish-brown to pale fawn, and even golden orange, with a thicker white or yellow band around the neck. The body is covered in an array of patterns of small white or yellow raised tubercles. They have large, dark eyes with visor-like hoods. They are not truly dimorphic, as males and females tend to be of similar size. Preanal pores are absent in males, but their gender is obvious as adult males have disproportionately large hemipenes just under their vent at the underside of the tail base.
The overall body coloration of the Australian barking gecko might be classified in four distinct phases: dark, normal, light and ultra-light. Many breeders and keepers refer to only two color phases: either normal or light/hypo (hypomelanistic). The lighter phase geckos tend to "fire up” during the nighttime, exhibiting brilliant hues of golden orange. Attempts to determine if there is solid genetic basis for the variations in color phases have been ambiguous; some may consider the hypo-phase to be recessive, but not simple recessive. Pre-conclusive evidence leans toward incomplete dominance, with the normal phase being the default coloration. It is theorized that the darker-bodied morphs tend to come from the cooler, southern areas of Australia, where the landscape is more wooded, while the lighter-bodied specimens are found in the sandy, warmer northern regions of their ranges. Amelanistic (without melanin) specimens exist, but factual scientific reports on the presence or absence of melanin and tyrosinaise in the skin (T+ or T-) are elusive.
Big on Personality
The Australian barking gecko may appear to be fragile, but they are actually quite robust. These outgoing and congenial geckos are delightful little characters, full of personality and attitude. Being social creatures, they are more easily handled and observed than most other knob-tailed gecko species because they tend to stay out of their hiding places, even during daylight hours. Being quite vocal, especially during breeding and when annoyed, gives them their common name, barking gecko. This behavior includes standing tall with their tails rigid and barking, as they lunge at you in attempt to discourage and threaten you. Although they do not have the tendency to bite, if their guttural bark and comical display of feigned aggression is not heeded, you may be delivered a nip, which is usually of little consequence other than surprise.
It is not uncommon to find barking geckos in rocky crevices and under vegetation debris in aggregate groups consisting of several adults, including multiple males, along with juveniles.
Australian barking geckos are prolific breeders in captivity if provided with optimal environmental conditions. Females begin ovulation in early spring, and they can produce clutches of two eggs approximately every 30 days through fall. A more detailed companion article on breeding Australian barking geckos can be read here.
Group Housing :
Australian barking geckos can be housed in rack systems or in naturalistic terrarium-type habitats. As a general rule, allow a minimum space of 12 inches long by 12 inches wide of surface area per adult barking gecko. Given that they are primarily terrestrial, the height only needs to be 9 to 12 inches tall. These geckos like to live in group colonies and hide in concealed dwellings kept on the warm side of their enclosure, so a cave-like shelter should be provided. For more naturalistic environments, artificial plants, rocks and driftwood can be used. Keep in mind that barking geckos are avid climbers, so secure a cover for their enclosure. Although it is reported that multiple males and juveniles are found together in the wild, adult males should not be housed together in the same vivarium. A single male can be kept with several females, or several females without a male can share the same enclosure. Aggression over food or space is rarely observed. It is not recommended to house adult barking geckos with babies or any other reptile species.
Natural Substrates :
Given that Australian barking geckos generally live in sandy, loamy soil, they do not have a tendency for intestinal impaction like many other gecko species that are not from indigenous sandy areas. Using a half to 1-inch layer of 50 percent fine-grade, non-silica sand and 50 percent sifted, sphagnum peat moss (without fertilizer!) in the bottom of the enclosure will provide a more natural substrate, allowing the gecko to dig and maintain appropriate thermal conditions and relative humidity. Keep an area of the cool side slightly moist by misting with water two to three times a week, allowing the gecko to lick droplets of water from the side walls, as they are not always inclined to drink from a bowl. Paper towel is also a suitable substrate, but it must be kept damp at the cool side, which can be problematic due to its absorbent nature.
All reptiles are cold-blooded and rely on the temperature of their surrounding environment to keep warm or cool. Use an under tank heater on the outside bottom of only one side of the gecko’s enclosure, thus allowing them to move back and forth within the enclosure to adjust their desired body temperature. This is known as thermal regulation, and it is critical for their metabolism, digestion and immune systems. Barking geckos cannot tolerate the high temperatures that some other terrestrial geckos do; ideal high temperatures are around 80 to 86 degrees Fahrenheit on the floor surface of the enclosure’s warm side and normal room temperatures of around 68 to 74 degrees on the cool side. Use under tank heating instead of overhead heat sources because they will only raise the ambient air temperature. Any commercial under tank heat tape or heat cable can be used, depending on the type of enclosure. Use a temperature controller in order to maintain ideal heating levels.
Avoid Direct Lighting :
Unlike most other reptiles that bask in the sun to keep warm and to assimilate vitamin D from natural sunlight, barking geckos are mainly nocturnal so they do not require special lighting, as their skin and eyes are not adapted for strong ultraviolet rays. All they require is the indirect light from a room window to provide an efficient natural photo cycle. Be aware that barking geckos’ eyes are very sensitive, and their eyesight is poor in bright light. Keep in mind that additional overhead lighting will raise the ambient temperature in the enclosure. Never expose your gecko to prolonged direct sunlight, as it could cause damage to their eyes or even death.
Handle With Care :
Australian barking geckos will tolerate moderate handling. When you must handle your gecko, keep your hand low and slowly extend it with the palm up. Avoid reaching down from above their head to grab them because they may become startled and think you are a predator coming down to attack them. Always handle your barking gecko with care, and never grab it by the tail. Like most lizards, when they are attacked or threatened, they can drop their tails. This is known as autotomizing, and the severed tail will continue to wiggle about to distract the hungry predator so the lizard can escape. When a lizard loses its tail, it becomes vulnerable to disease and infection until it grows a new one. Barking geckos will eventually grow new tails, but the regenerated ones are never quite as nice as the original.
Reptiles shed their skin on regular basis, and barking geckos should molt about every two to four weeks. Unlike some gecko species, barking geckos do not eat their shed skin. It is extremely important that all the skin comes off, especially from the eyes (eye caps) and toes, as geckos can develop eye infections and lose their digits to infection if the skin does not completely shed. Soaking your barking gecko’s feet in about 1/2 inch of warm water and then use a cotton swab in a rolling motion to help remove any residual skin from their toes. Use a swab with mild saline solution or warm water to help take residual caps off of their eyes. Be very gentle! If shedding is a problem for your barking gecko, it may be necessary to increase the humidity on the cool side of the cage by moistening the substrate more or by placing a damp paper towel inside the hide.
Barking geckos are voracious eaters and feed mainly on live crickets, roaches and occasional superworms. Giving your gecko a variety of foods is recommended, but barking geckos are not inclined to eat from bowls. Be careful not to feed a gecko anything larger than about three-fourths the size of its head. Any more than that and they could choke. Feed babies two to three small crickets or roach nymphs every one to two days until they reach about 2 inches in overall length, then they can be fed larger prey items every two to three days up until they become full-grown in about 12 to 18 months. Adults can be fed four to five larger crickets or roaches every three to four days. They will lick water droplets from the walls of the cool side of their enclosure after misting. A water bowl can be made available, but bowls are seldom utilized.
Food items must be dusted with a mixture of ultra-fine calcium powder every two or three feedings, and dusted with reptile vitamins once a week. Calcium with vitamin D may be used every feeding for egging females and growing babies and without vitamin D for other adults. Put a small amount of calcium powder in a plastic bag or commercial cricket duster, add the feeder insects and shake them gently in the bag or container until they are coated. Vitamins should be given weekly using the same method. The health of your barking gecko is dependent on the proper supplementation of calcium and vitamins; otherwise, serious diseases can result. Metabolic bone disease (MBD) is caused by calcium deficiency, and it can permanently disfigure or ultimately kill your gecko. Keeping live insect feeders gut-loaded with nutritious food will transfer those nutrients to the geckos when consumed.
There has been a steady increase in popularity for the Australian barking gecko during the past several years among gecko enthusiasts in the United States, Europe and now Asia. There are a growing number of gecko breeders working with this amazing species, making future availability less challenging and expensive. There is a concern that with the limited population of Australian barking geckos in the U.S., the gene pools may be fairly shallow. Obtaining potential breeding stock from Europe, or trading animals between breeders, could help with diversifying gene pools. Ideally, outcrossing with wild-caught specimens could strengthen genetic deficiencies caused by inbreeding, but Australia vehemently protects and conserves its natural resources—wildlife being at the top of the list. Wild specimens are simply not available to the U.S. market.
Further breeding statistics could prove the genetics of the various color mutations as defined by the reptile community. DNA testing and lab studies to determine if melanin and tyrosinaise (an oxidase, which is the rate limiting enzyme for controlling the production of melanin) in amelanistic specimens would be most interesting and beneficial.
Beautiful and Entertaining :
Australian barking geckos are not only beautiful and entertaining, but easy to keep in captivity. They are a manageable size, do not require special lighting or elaborate heating, and are less likely to hide than other reptiles, making them fun to observe. Being voracious insectivores, it is unnecessary to prepare elaborate salads or fruit to balance their diet. As aggregate animals, several Australian barking geckos can be housed together in a tank-style habitat. Unlike many Australian knob-tailed species, the U. milii are less prone to stress and are easily handled. With a lifespan of more than 10 years, Australian barking geckos are quickly becoming a mainstream species and family pet. They are delightful additions to any reptile collection—truly darlings from Down Under!
MARCIA McGUINESS has had a special interest in reptiles and amphibians since childhood, and she is the owner of Golden Gate Geckos since 1995. Along with Australian barking geckos (Underwoodisaurus milii), she also keeps and breeds seven species of terrestrial geckos, comprised of Australian knob-tails (Nephrurus levis, N. wheeleri and N. amyae), leopard geckos (Eublepharis macularius), African fat-tailed geckos (Hemitheconyx caudicinctus) and western banded geckos (Coleonyx variegatus ssp). Her passion also includes her collection of green tree pythons (Morelia viridis) and Australian carpet pythons (Morelia spilota cheyne i and M. s. spilota). She lives in the San Francisco Bay area with her husband.
3- Thick-tailed Gecko Underwoodisaurus milii
courtesy to : Thick-tailed Gecko Underwoodisaurus milii
The Thick-tailed Gecko is one of the most familiar of the geckoes of southern country-Australia, and one of the most beautiful species in the country. They may be found in a range of habitats, from coastal areas to rocky hills, deserts to dense forest. Despite their name, they are usually found under rocks rather than wood. The name Underwoodisaurus means “Underwood's” and refers to a man by the name of Underwood!
Thick-tailed Geckoes are large and robust by gecko standards, with a maximum snout to vent length of up to around 10cm, but most populations usually only get to around 8cm SVL. Females are usually larger than males, but occasional very large males are sometimes found.
The broad, thick, carrot to turnip-shaped tail is used to store energy, and an inspection of the tail gives a good indication of the health of the animal. The heavier the tail, the better the condition the animal is in. The body is covered in distinct tubercles, some of which are yellow, cream or white and may be scattered randomly over the body or form bands of varying regularity.
These light coloured tubercles contrast sharply with the background colour which ranges from dull browns and purples through to reddish tones.
Occasional hypomelanistic specimens are found, the most extreme of these can be light pink or orange, and other than the eyes they can look quite like albinoes.
Like all geckoes and most skinks, the tail can be cast off when the lizard is scared or when the tail is held, as a predator defense. Original tails usually have a darker background colour than the body, with the light tubercles arranged in clear bands. Regrown tails are shorter and stouter, with smooth skin and irregular, indistinct patterns.
Thick-tailed Geckoes are nocturnal and terrestrial. They are clawed geckoes, meaning they can't climb glass or other smooth surfaces. They are purely carnivorous, preying upon insects, spiders, other arthropods and sometimes even other geckoes such as Marbled Geckoes and Bynoe's Geckoes, which sometimes share their shelter sites and foraging areas. Thick-tailed Geckoes are extremely cold tolerant and may be found active at night even during winter at the southern extreme of their range. They have been found actively hunting at temperatures below 10 degrees Celsius.
During hot days they shelter underground, but during cool weather they take advantage of the sun's heat by resting beneath rocks, especially those which rest upon a rocky base. Aggregations of individuals have often been found, sometimes with over 10 animals sheltering together. Juveniles are particularly prone to aggregating, perhaps to increase their thermal inertia.
They lay leathery-shelled eggs in spring and summer, always with two eggs in a clutch, and multiple clutches may be produced in a season.
Other and recommended websites :
Thick-tailed gecko care
Thick Tail Gecko *Basic Care Guide*
Thick Tail Geckos - Just out of the egg - Babies!
thick-tailed gecko setup/care
4- Breeding Australian Barking Geckos
BY MARCIA MCGUINESS
Australian barking geckos (Underwoodisaurus milii), also known as Australian thick-tailed geckos, are not only fun to keep, but they are very prolific breeders when kept under ideal environmental conditions. Females will lay two eggs approximately every 30 days throughout breeding season, which is typically from late January through September in the Northern Hemisphere.
The lively Australian barking gecko can be an easy breeding project if you give it the environment and care it needs.
Many breeders and keepers cool their Australian barking geckos by lowering the temperature of their environment for six to 12 weeks during late fall through winter. If barking geckos are housed together in pairs or colonies, they will generally stop breeding on their own during the winter season because temperatures are naturally cooler and daylight hours are reduced. Given that barking geckos are housed at lower ambient air temperature anyway (80 to 84 degrees Fahrenheit), there is no significant difference in the breeding habits of captive Australian barking geckos in regard to cooling them or not.
Australian Barking Gecko Courtship
Males can be quite persistent with ovulating females, and copulation occurs frequently. When the female is receptive to a male, it is not unusual for her to seek him and lay down next to him as she vocalizes quite audibly in a high-pitched call. When the male notices her, he will stand tall with his tail pointing straight up, darting back and forth, and with very little finesse, will grab her by the neck or head, sometimes growling and shaking his head.
Australian Barking Gecko Mating
Coitus is performed from the side, with the male barking gecko scooting under the female’s lifted tail until their vents are aligned and his hemipenis is inserted into the female’s cloaca. With the male still holding on to the female’s neck or head, both geckos will audibly vocalize for the duration of the mating, which can last for 30 to 60 minutes! Post-copulation, the male’s hemipenis can take as long as an hour to invert back into his body.
Australian Barking Gecko Egg Laying
Two eggs will become visible in the female gecko’s abdomen, usually within one to two weeks. After an approximately 30-day gestation, she will not be interested in food and will have a pre-lay shed around 72 hours prior to depositing her eggs. It is important to provide the gravid female with an appropriate place to lay her eggs, such as a plastic container with a hole in the lid large enough for her enter and exit. The egg-laying substrate can be peat moss or potting soil (without fertilizer), which should be kept moist, but not wet, at all times.
It is not unusual for all of the barking geckos in a colony to crowd into the lay box, but this can prove problematic if the laying female becomes too distracted or stressed to deposit her eggs. If this occurs, it may be wise to simply remove the female and her lay box and transfer it to a separate enclosure until the eggs are laid. After laying eggs, females are usually famished and ready to eat.
Australian Barking Gecko Egg Incubation
Australian barking gecko eggs must be incubated at 80 to 83 degrees. Using an air-tight plastic deli cup or similar container, place it on a digital scale and tare (zero-out) the weight. Fill it halfway with fertilizer-free vermiculite or perlite and note the weight. Using a spray bottle, add enough water so the ratio is 0.8 parts to 1.0 part (0.8:1) of the egg incubation medium by weight. For example, if there are 2 ounces of vermiculite, 1.6 ounces of water should be added. During incubation, open the sealed lid of the container weekly for an air exchange.
Australian Barking Gecko Hatchling Care
In approximately 58 to 62 days, small replicas of the parents will emerge from their eggs. Hatchling barking geckos are, overall, approximately 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 inches long and weigh about a gram. They are usually quite calm and may simply walk into your hand as they are removed from the incubation container to go into their habitat. It is advisable to keep hatchlings in smaller containers on damp paper towels until they shed for the first time. After their first shed, they will be ready to eat two to three small, one-fourth-inch crickets or Blaptica dubia roach nymphs dusted with calcium powder every day. Australian barking gecko babies are very slow growers, and they can take up to nine to 10 months to accurately sex.
Breeding usually occurs after a brumation period of about 2 months. In the late of September breeding can begin. People recommend introducing the female to the males cage as they are more readily to breed but I find introducing him to hers is just as good. Once introduced the males so just about instantly be on the chase for the female with eventually her giving up and being pinned to the ground by the male with her tail in the air. If you find the female is just not going to give in and the male backs off and hides. Take him out and re-introduce him with her in about a week’s time, continue this until the female is bred. Once this has happened make sure there is a spot for her to lay her eggs. (I generally already have 2 moist hides in the tank already as to help with shedding throughout the year) I have one at either end one in the cold side and one on the warm side. Moist hides can easily be made by using a simple zip lock container with a hole cut in either the sides or on the lid. (I cut mine on the lid as I bury the moist hide for more privacy, it encourages her in there more) fill the container with about 2-3 inches of vermiculite and mist with a mister as to not make the hide too wet. I find if the hide is too wet she will spend barely any time in there. In about anywhere from 2-6 weeks she should have laid her first clutch. They can generally lay an average of 5 clutches or so over the span of about 4-10 months. Remove the eggs from the moist hide and prepare for incubation.(read the incubation section for preparation of incubation and proper removal of eggs.)
Preparing the eggs for incubation is quite easy, the following method is what I use to prepare and incubate my gecko eggs.
When I think there are eggs in the moist hide I get a paint brush (new brush and or very clean and sanitized.) and gently brush away at the vermiculite in the moist hides. If there are eggs you will reveal them quite easily with gently brushing at the top layers of vermiculite. Before you fully reveal the eggs grab a marker of some sort like a highlighter or texta and mark the top of the egg. When you remove the egg from the vermiculite moist hide DO NOT and I repeat do not turn these eggs if you do it will kill them. With an incubator already set up place the eggs inside the incubator in the exact position you took them out of the moist hide with the marking you made earlier from ontop of the egg still on top now. The rest is just a waiting game. Eggs can take anywhere from 45-70 days to hatch and I have heard of healthy hatchies hatching up to the 100 day mark. Studies have shown that incubation temperatures can be a deciding factor to the sex of the gecko hatchling. Keeping the incubator at a rate of mid 80 degrees Fahrenheit (85-86) you should receive a ratio of %50 male %50 female. Higher temps will decide males and lower temps will decide females. Remember to make a note of when the eggs were laid and put into the incubator. Watch out for Mould growing on the eggs as it is a sign of a dud egg and you would want to remove it as soon as detected as not to effect the other eggs. Do not forget to open up the container in the incubator (if eggs are placed in a sealed container) once a week to give the eggs some fresh air.
If you have no idea about incubators go onto YouTube and search “DIY home made reptile incubator” If you have brought an incubator. Make sure it does not have the automatic egg turner function as it will kill the eggs. Also hovabator incubators should not have turbo fan as it will dry out the eggs. I will post a link to a video I used to make my first incubator later.
Caring for the gecko hatchlings is quite easy, once they have hatched open up the incubator and place them in roughly a 7-10 litre container. I use a KLIP IT 7 litre container with a lid that clips on to become air tight brought from bigw for $10, of course I put ventilation holes in the lid and sides for fresh air for the gecko. Substrate used should be paper towel kept moist so the geckos can lick and get water. After about 2-10 days they will start feeding some as early as 2 days will feed. Feed them small crickets dusted in repti-cal DO NOT give any hatchling free 24/7 source to calcium powder as it can result in an overdose I have seen this happen!! Hatchlings should be fed every day to every other day mine have always tend to feed every second day of about 2-4 small crickets. After around 2-3 months I move the hatchlings onto normal substrate with a small container of water (bottle lid) and still mist the container once a week. I often find the hatchlings do the same as the adult and more than not lick the droplets on the side of the tank when I mist more than drinking from the water bowl. Once the age of around 6-8 months have been reached you can generally sex the hatchlings. I keep all hatchlings housed individually as to easily take care of them monitor them individually and make sure there is no competition over food.
Geckos Species :
DWARF GECKOS GROUPE :
Geckos Species :
DWARF GECKOS GROUPE :
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