Burmese python Care :
Burmese Python Care Sheet
BY BOB CLARK
A caramel Burmese python
Burmese Python (Python molurus bivittatus)
Burmese Pythons, because of their docile nature and undemanding requirements, are among the most suitable of the large snakes as captive animals. It's been more than 35 years since I got my first Burmese, and the species still remains my favorite.
There's no denying the popularity of the Burmese python. And as long as you're sure you have the space to properly house one, you, too, should be able to discover why I still like them so much, after all these years.
Burmese Python Availability :
Burmese pythons are readily available in a variety of colors and patterns, with new traits and trait combinations becoming available with increasing frequency.
Burmese Python Size :
Burmese pythons are among the largest snakes and can potentially reach lengths of more than 20 feet and weights in excess of 250 pounds. Snakes of this size, however, are unusual and do not reach these proportions quickly or by accident. Growth is rapid initially, but slows considerably after about 10 feet. The average adult Burmese in captivity is probably about 11 or 12 feet long.
Burmese Python Caging :
Most importantly, the cage should safely contain the snake. After all, subsequent requirements are less important once the snake has disappeared into that hole in the wall behind the washing machine because you forgot to properly secure it.
The size of the enclosure should be large enough to allow the snake a reasonable amount of movement, yet small enough to permit accurate temperature and humidity control. Burmese pythons are terrestrial snakes that spend most of their time on the ground, so the floor space of their enclosure will be more important to the animal than the height of the cage.
A baby Burmese will require the space equivalent of a 10-gallon aquarium. Larger individuals will need more space, of course. A 200-pound animal will need floor space measuring at least 4 feet by 8 feet. I recommend the enclosure have roughly the floor space equal to four to six times the area of the snake itself when it's in a flat coil. The cage should also have a door that allows easy access and that can be closed securely. A glass or Plexiglas window for viewing is important, as well. Some ventilation is desirable, although not as much as one might initially think. Heat and humidity are easily lost through vents, especially through those on the top of the enclosure. Small vents located on the sides of the cage will permit adequate air exchange.
Wood, plastic and glass are all acceptable materials for cage construction. I use enclosures that are constructed of ABS plastic, and which have a smooth, nonporous finish that allows easy cleaning and sterilization. All corners and edges are rounded, leaving no difficult-to-clean areas. The cages are lightweight, have large tempered glass viewing areas and, best of all, someone else has made them already.
Burmese Python Substrate
There are several decent cage substrates available. It is virtually impossible to provide a naturalistic vivarium for a large python, unless only the sturdiest of materials are used. Substrates are generally selected for utility rather than aesthetics. Newspaper is absorbent, fairly sterile and readily available. Various woods, shavings and shredded products are acceptable, too, although they tend to foul in moist environments.
Burmese Python Lighting and Temperature
Burmese pythons prefer temperatures in the mid-80s Fahrenheit. Slightly cooler temperatures are allowable at night. Indeed, cooler night temperatures are essential to breeding Burmese pythons, should you desire to eventually undertake this endeavor.
Because Burmese pythons require temperatures above what we consider comfortable in our homes, it is necessary to raise the temperature of the enclosure with a supplemental heat source. This heat can be provided in several ways. I prefer to use a heat pad or heat tape underneath the enclosure. Heat pads or undertank heaters are available in many pet shops that stock reptile supplies. They provide safe, even heating for smaller enclosures. Heat tape is also available and serves the same purpose, although it allows more flexibility in heating larger areas more economically. Various types of heat bulbs are readily available and are effective, as well.
It is important, though, to give the snake some choice in determining its own temperature. In the wild, the animal would be able to thermoregulate by freely moving between warmer or cooler areas. These choices are limited in captivity, but by proper heater placement, it is possible to give the snake some control over its own temperature. The maximum thermal gradient can be obtained by placing the heater at one end of the enclosure rather than in the center. It will be warmer nearer the heater and cooler as the distance from the heater increases. This will give the snake a wider range of choices in regulating its own temperature.
The heater, it should be noted, serves two purposes. It provides a warm area so the snake can increase its body temperature, yet it also provides the heat that increases the ambient temperature of the enclosure. Depending on the type, size and construction of the cage, heat loss from the cage and the temperature of the air outside the cage, the heater may need to be much warmer than the average temperature of the enclosure itself. This is cause for alarm for many novices. It is perfectly acceptable to have a temperature of 100 degrees Fahrenheit or more directly over (or under) the heat source if this is necessary to maintain the desired ambient temperature. Always be certain, however, that the snake can retreat to a cooler area as it sees fit.
The temperature of the enclosure can be regulated in several ways. In the first and most primitive way, the temperature can be controlled by initially selecting a heater with an output that provides the acceptable amount of heat. If ambient conditions outside the enclosure are constant and the heater output remains the same, then the temperature inside the cage should remain constant, as well. It is difficult to select a heater with exactly the heat output necessary, and constant conditions outside the cage are not always as constant as they might be. A rheostat or dimmer switch can adjust the heat output of a heater by adjusting the power input, the other problem can be overcome by using a controller with a feedback system.
Because a thermostat monitors the temperature of the enclosure and activates the heater to add heat when appropriate, it is by far the best method for controlling cage temperature. There are two types of thermostats on the market for use in herp-related applications. The conventional on/off type operates like the thermostat in your house; it senses when the temperature has dropped below a certain level and directs the heater to add heat until the set temperature is reached. A proportional thermostat is much like a rheostat with a feedback system. The thermostat continuously monitors the temperature and makes slight adjustments in the electrical current to the heater. In this type, the heat is always on, but only at the level necessary to maintain the set temperature. Proportional thermostats eliminate the fluctuations caused by the on/off cycle of conventional-type thermostats and provide a continuous warmth from the heat source. I recommend (and sell, wouldn't you know) the Biostat line of thermostats. Wild Burmese pythons live in areas of high humidity, and captive animals require the same. Adding heat to the enclosure can dry it out and provisions must be made to retain moisture. A tightly constructed cage with a water bowl and minimal air vents should keep the relative humidity above 60 percent or so. Wooden cages should be painted and sealed.
Aquariums with screen tops are difficult to regulate. Heat rises and escapes through the top, requiring additional heat to maintain the appropriate temperature, which further dries out the enclosure. Aquariums should be used with tops that restrict heat and moisture loss.
Burmese Python Food
Feeding Burmese pythons is fairly simple. I feed an appropriately sized meal whenever the snake is hungry. Baby Burmese pythons can eat an adult mouse during their first feeding, which is surprising to many novice snake keepers. Several sensory systems are operating in a feeding python. First, the food item must smell like something to eat. Second, the food item must move in the manner of a potential meal. And third, the food item must be warmer than its surroundings. Burmese pythons eat only warm-blooded prey and have sensory organs (pits) to detect the slight amount of heat generated by the body of a potential food item. A combination of these factors seems to be important in eliciting a feeding response in newborn pythons. Pinky mice normally do not move in a way that interests a baby python, and although I think they must smell like mice, they don't generate and retain body heat very well.
Once a baby python has had its first few meals, it is possible for it to learn behaviors that allow it to recognize and eat prekilled food items, or even chicken parts or processed snake foods. It is sometimes recommended that snakes be fed only dead food items to avoid potential injury that could be inflicted by the struggling prey item. It is important to remember, though, that nearly every meal taken by a python in the history of the species has been living. Nature has prepared them well to deal with the possible associated problems. Frozen prekilled food makes things easier for us, though, and perhaps that should be the most important consideration.
As the snake grows, it will require more food, of course. For the first few meals, one mouse offered once or twice a week will be sufficient. Soon, though, the snake will require more than one mouse at each feeding. When the snake is regularly eating several mice per feeding, try offering it a small rat instead. By the time a Burmese is about 4 feet long, it should be able to take a medium rat; by 6 feet, a large rat would be appropriate. There is a young rabbit that's equivalent in mass to a very large rat; substitute one of these as the snake grows, and increase the size of the rabbits as the snake increases in size. Chickens also represent a good food source; hatchling Burmese pythons can eat a day old chick, and at 9 or 10 feet they can eat an adult chicken.
Burmese Python Water:
Burmese pythons should always have access to fresh water. A heavy ceramic bowl, like the type that's used for rabbits, works well. It is not necessary for the snakes to be able to submerge themselves in the water dish.
Burmese Python Handling and Temperament
Burmese pythons, because of their docile nature and undemanding requirements, are among the most suitable of the large snakes as captive animals.
Snakes have only a limited ability to reason. Believe me, that statement is quite generous. Keepers can in advertently condition a snake to think (I'm being generous again) that every time the door to its cage opens it will be fed. If the snake is handled infrequently and most of its interaction with its keeper occurs during feeding time, this conditioning is reinforced. With large snakes, especially, it is important that the snake learn to differentiate feeding time from other times, and you from its dinner. It will make little difference to you what thought processes have led to your current situation as your snake's mouth latches onto your forearm. What this means is that it's a very good idea to be aware of your snake's location and orientation when feeding or when servicing its cage. If a snake is acting hungry when I open the cage, I gently tap it on the nose with a rolled up newspaper. This is usually enough to let it know it's not feeding time. It's also best not to house more than one snake per cage, and it's essential not to feed more than one snake in a cage at the same time.
Bob Clark has been breeding Burmese pythons for 35 years, and has developed many of the Burmese python color and pattern morphs that are available today. Visit his website at BobClark.com.
Burmese python morphs
Burmese Pythons :
courtesy to : www.benrogersreptiles.com/burmese-pythons_info.php
Below just shortlisted morphs other are available please search more ?!
The Caramel Albino Burmese Python is the most exciting color mutation that has recently become available in the Burmese Pythons. One thing that is very unique about this morph compared to other Burmese morphs is it is arguably the only variety that most people would agree gets better looking with age. Although very rare right now, this morph will undoubtedly be one of the most popular Burmese morphs once they are more readily available. For this reason at this point in time, the caramel Burmese is a great choice for someone looking for an investment animal. There are currently only a handful of these worldwide, and there are many directions you could take a caramel project. One thrilling aspect is all the pattern mutations out there that are available to breed the Caramel albinos into. Knowing how the Caramel albinos get better with age, the idea of combining it with any of the pattern morphs are sure to be the next big thing. A caramel granite, Caramel green, or even a Caramel Labyrinth have yet to be produced, and will be amazing as you can imagine!. It's a very exciting time for Burmese Python fans and even more exciting time for a Burmese Python breeder. So don't miss out on this opportunity! I hope to have some Caramel albino babies available in 2010. In the US this morph was first reproduced by Jason Hormann in 2008.
For some people, it just can't get much better than what mother nature has created and set as the standard. For them the normal, or sometimes called the "wild type" Burmese Python can not be beat in beauty by all the other color and pattern mutations out there. At Ben Rogers Reptiles we love them all, and we keep some top notch normal phases in our collection as well. In addition to that, most of the normal types we produce are also het for one or more color or pattern morphs. Which is good as these het normal Burmese Pythons usually come out more colorful and have a slightly different pattern from the norm. So while they fall in the definition of being normal, they are at the top of the spectrum in color, and pattern. I'll let the pictures speak for themselves.
Sometimes referred to as Amelanistic, or the T- albino form of Burmese Python. The Albino Burmese Python was the first ever real investment reptile that paved the way for most of what is out there today. Albino Burmese Pythons wer first reproduced by Bob Clark in 1986. I strive to produce high contrast Albino burms, that keep their contrast into adulthood. As babies they have dark orange dorsal spots circled by white on a orange/yellow background. When they mature the dark orange spots turn more yellow, and a lot of times the orange bleeds into the white coloration which can make for a pretty dull looking adult. For an affordable, attractive giant python an albino Burmese Python is hard to pass up. I have some very genetically diverse albinos, and normally have ones that are het for either lab, green or granite.
These are beautiful snakes! Baby Green Burmese Pythons will typically have dark brown dorsal striping or spotting as babies. When they mature into adults they look nearly patternless, with dorsal striping or spotting only slightly showing up, which is why they are often refered to as Patternless Burmese Pythons. They can have spotting on their sides as well, which tends to stay with them as they grow. When Jay Owens produced the first Green Granites in 2003, he also produced a new type of Green Burmese Python that was heterozygous for granite. This new type of Green Burmese tends to have a lot of spotting all over it's body, which causes the normally uniform dorsal striping or spotting to be much more chaotic. If you look at the two pictures above, you can see two young Patternless Burmese Pythons. They are full siblings, but the one on the right is heterozygous for granite. The Green Burmese Python was first reproduced in 1987 by Tom Weidner. At Ben Rogers Reptiles we aim to produce very colorful babies that mature in to beautiful adults. They are a very affordable, yet still a very impressive choice.
These are another favorite of mine. Just like the normal colored greens these guys start off with a dark orange dorsal spotting or striping that fades as that matures. They usually have a very clean and smooth look to them which I find very appealing. I keep a lot of different types of this morph and my focus is on producing darker orange phases, and some that are a much lighter. Both types will turn out to be some outstanding adults. It just depends what you like more. Next to the normal Albino Burmese Python, these are probably one of the more popular varieties of Burmese Pythons out there. These were first produced by Mark Bell in 1990.
The Labyrinth was first reproduced by Bob Clark in 1989. It was given the name "Labyrinth" due to it's maze-like pattern. This pattern mutation still remains one of the most sot after Burmese Pythons morphs. When they are available, they usually sell out very fast! Therefore, Labyrinth Burmese Pythons have maintained a much higher price tag over the other common Burmese Python variations for many years. Only the Albino labyrinth has maintained a higher value.
This is the Albino combined with the Labyrinth pattern. These have been a long time favorite of mine, and I have some of the best breeding stock around hands down. First produced by Mark Bell in 1993. If you are interested or might be interested in breeding some day you can't go wrong with an Albino Labyrinth. They are always in very high demand due to their amazing patterns and typically good contrast as adults, and the prices for these as babies have stayed around 450-500 dollars over the last 4-5 years.
The Granite Burmese Python is the latest pattern morph to become available in the hobby. This morph was first produced in the US by Bob Clark in 1999, along with the Albino Granite. One of my favorite things about these guys is their heads. They have a much reduced arrow shape on top of their head, and the overall color of their head is a light cream color. This pattern mutation is very unique in that some individuals can have a full granite pattern, and other can have what is called a reduced pattern. The ones with a reduced pattern have areas on their body that don't have the granite markings. I really like both varieties of this morph, but I have more Adult granites with the reduced pattern for my breeding stock. While I would have expected to produce hatchling similar to the parents, I often produce granite babies that have the full granite pattern . Pictured above is a reduced pattern granite on the left, and full pattern granite on the right. The granite Burmese Python is a awesome snake and my breeding stock is quite remarkable.
The Albino Granite was first produced in 1999 by Bob Clark. If you like the Albino Burmese Python, but want something a little different, the Albino Granite certainly deserve some consideration. Albino Granites have a peppered look to them, and are usually a even balance of orange and white. They are also known for having very light, and almost white looking head as they mature. Just like with the regular Granite Burmese Python, some can have a more reduced pattern, and some can have a more full granite pattern. So, there are a lot of different types of Albino Granites out there, which makes this designer morph a favorite for a lot of people.
These were first produced by Jay Owens in 2003 along with the Albino version. They are a really interesting designer morph that opened the door for the green/labyrinth and hopefully soon the granite/labyrinth as no one was really trying to combine the patterns variations together. Before the green/granites were produced it was believed by a lot of breeders at the time that the green would cover up any other pattern it was combined with. That fortunately wasn’t what happened and both the green and granite blend together to make a very unique and attractive form of Burmese Python that is hard to pass up! It’s been about 7 years since these were first made and these are still very hard to come by. Only a handful of breeders have been able to duplicate what Jay Owens has done, and when they have done so they have only been fortunate enough to produce a few of them at a time.
The Albino Green Granite was first produced in 2003 by Jay Owens, along with the normal Green Granite. These are really something as they are three recessive morphs in one, which has never been done before in Burmese Pythons. As babies they can be an almost pink color, which is really cool! As they mature their heads look very white! Just like the Green Granites these are still very rare and another must have for a serious Burmese Python breeder. Not only can you make more of these (which are very uncommon), but by pairing one of these up with any of the newer morphs out there will put you way ahead in the game. For example, if you bred one of these to a Hypo Burmese Python you could make Hypos 100% het for Albino, Green, and Granite! Not only could you sell those for a LOT of money but from there you would be able to make Albino Hypos, Green Hypos, Albino Green Hypos, Granite Hypos, Albino Granite Hypos, and of course Albino Green Granite Hypos, all of which have never been made before, and could be produced in a single clutch!
The Patternless Labyrinth was first produced by me in 2008. This snake was not what I or anyone really expected, but I have to say I'm very happy it wasn't. Before they hatched out I was anticipating some sort of compromise between both the green pattern and the labyrinth pattern, but what resulted was a snake with no pattern at all! They are a truly patternless snake, with silver sides, that has a much different color from the green clutch mates. They are getting darker with age, and still have a very clean look to them. This is a must have for anyone that likes the rarest of the rare designer morphs, or for anyone looking to be on the front line for creating new combinations with the hypo Burmese or Caramel Burmese Pythons. This is a designer morph you won't likely see in abundance for many years if the slow production of green/granites is any indicator.
A small group of these Hypo Burmese Pythons were first imported into the US in late 2005. To date, this is the only Co-dominant mutation in Burmese Pythons. Which means you can breed a Hypo Burmese(short for hypomelanistic) to any other Burmese Python, and produce them the first generation. This is good as you can produce Hypo Burmese Pythons faster than you can with recessive morphs, but they do tend to drop in value a lot faster as well. What's really cool about something that is Co-dominant is there is usually a super form. Meaning, you can breed two Hypo Burms together, and produce something really wild. In this case, if you breed two hypos together, you can make what's called a blue-eyed Leucistic Burmese Python. There are a lot of ways you can go with the Hypo breeding project. So far, no one has combined the hypo Burmese with any of the other Burmese pattern or color mutations. Which has a lot of Burmese Python breeders very enthusiastic about the different possibilities of this fairly new morph. If you are shopping around for Hypo Burms be careful who you buy from! I've seen a few people trying to pass off a more or less light colored normal Burmese Python for more money by tacking on the Hypo name. The hypo line I work with is from the ONLY proven genetic line out there, and there won't be any disappointments when you try and breed out something from my hypo line.
Some Videos about Morphs :
Burmese Python Designer Morphs: Tinley Part- Part 2
BURMESE PYTHON LOVERS MORPH VIDEO
Why You Don’t Want a Burmese Python
courtesy to : www.tradewinds-studios.com/snaketamers/burm.
That cute little snake in the pet store tank, it’s lovely brown and gold or yellow and orange (if it happens to be an albino) colors that are so attractive – at 16 to 20 inches, a baby Burm doesn’t seem intimidating even if it may seem aggressive like most hatchling snakes. If you are considering a Burmese Python as your first snake, I’d like you to finish reading this article that tells you why not to get a Burmese Python as your first snake.
A Burmese Python can grow ten feet in one year. This is not an exaggeration. I’ve owned Burms. They grow fast, are voracious eaters, and they can be aggressive. I do not recommend them to any as a first pet reptile.
Burms can grow to 20 feet or better in captivity. After they reach 5 or 6 feet, most owners realize what they’ve gotten into, and start trying to find a new home for the once-cute, once-little snake. Good luck. Pet stores can’t give them away, you can’t sell them for any price, and your family and friends likely already know better. So what do you do now? Most humane societies won’t take them, because they don’t have the facilities and also because most people have a healthy fear of snakes. Herp Societies will take them when and if they have the ability to, and they are so often swamped with ten foot Burms and adult green iguanas, they can’t even handle the overflow.
Keeping a Burm is an interesting adventure. They will eat – and eat and eat. You have to know when to say ‘enough’. And after they do all this eating, you know what is next. As soon as you finish cleaning that cage, your snake (of any breed, actually) is going to take a dip in his water dish and leave you a package in the corner. With a Burm, these little presents aren’t so little. A ten foot snake can leave quite a pile of droppings, and if you don’t clean it up right away, everyone in the house will know.
A Burm will quickly outgrow the twenty gallon aquarium he started out in. In fact, an aquarium just won’t do after awhile. Our 16-foot Burm required a walk-in closet that we converted over to a cage. There was a lock on the cage, for her safety as well as ours. So two more things to consider are – Do you have the room to properly house your pet Burm, and do you have the money to care for him? A run to the vet can cost several hundred dollars. Feeding him will be relatively expensive, as you will have to provide an adult Burm with a full grown rabbit or chicken once a week, or more if your snake is a large female.
Burms have a reputation for being aggressive, but when properly cared for this is not a problem. The problem arises when an owner doesn’t take proper care of the pet snake. The snake associates human interaction only with feeding time – and someone will end up getting bit, the snake will be taken to the nearest place that will take him, and there will be one more ‘mean’ , large snake that is homeless.
Friends and family seldom understand one wanting a snake as a pet. Believe it. They will avoid coming to you house in extreme cases, and will look at you oddly and laugh when you ask them to pet-sit when you want to take a vacation. And never, never try sneaking a pet reptile into a house or apartment you share with another person. Sooner or later, the critter will be discovered, you will be in trouble, and you both may be homeless.
Taking your Burm somewhere can turn into a major project. Our Maggie traveled to educational shows in one of those giant plastic toolboxes for the back of pickup trucks, bungee-corded closed. Not that this actually kept her in the box when she wanted to have a look around. We were driving down the road one day, wondering what all the people passing us were looking at. I glanced in the back to discover Maggie had pushed a corner of the lid up, and she was hanging about two feet out of the box, watching traffic go by much to the shock of people driving next to us. If she had wanted to get out, she could have. Unwinding a snake from beneath removable minivan seats takes a couple hours if they are being uncooperative and you are alone. It also takes more than one person to pick up and carry a big snake, because Burms seldom fit in pillowcases more than a few months.
So, if you think you can handle all this, don’t go get a Burmese Python yet. Go research all the care they require. Read about their habits and their quirks. Know what your really getting into before you acquire any new pet, and you both will have much more enjoyable lives for it.
Videos on Care , Feeding & Breeding :
Burmese python care video
Burmese python care video request
How To Care For A Burmese Python
Burmese pythons make great pets!!!!!!!!!!!
Burmese Python- hand feeding
Burmese Python eating huge chicken
Baby burmese python second feeding with me. First mouse
Burmese Python eat duck - live feeding
Ivory Burmese Python Breeding
Hypo Burmese Pythons Hatching
Mating Burmese Pythons in Miami Seaquarium - 2002 (480p)
Albino Burmese Pythons Breeding- March 2016!!!!
MY 2ND ATTEMPT AT BREEDING RETICULATED PYTHONS!
Been looking forward to seeing what we made with our Burmese Python breeding!