1- Determine the sex of your bearded dragons. There are several physical characteristics that will help you tell your male and female dragons apart. The male bearded dragon’s head is larger than that of a female. In addition, his abdominal girth will be smaller and he will have larger pores in his anal region.
Another way to determine the sex is to look at the hemipenile bulges. To do this, hold your bearded dragon on his back in your hand and gently bend his tail toward his back at a 90-degree angle; be careful not to damage the vertebrae in his tail when you bend it. Two hemipenile bulges on either side of the tail indicate a male; one centered bulge or no bulge at all indicates a female.
Bearded Dragons Breeding and Morphs :
1- Breeding Bearded Dragons
BY MARGARET A. WISSMAN, DVM, DABVP
Q: Hi. I have a 1½-year-old female beardie in a 55-gallon tank, and we decided that we want to mate her, so we purchased a male of the same size. They seem to be doing OK together – no aggression or anything. I guess my question is: Are they the right age? As soon as they hatch babies, do we separate them or keep the mother with the babies and separate the male? I am a little confused here. Thank you for your time.
A: You seem very confused about what’s involved in breeding bearded dragons. You can’t have the female lay her eggs in the 55-gallon tank and expect them to hatch on their own. Female bearded dragons aren’t very maternal, and they don’t guard their eggs in captivity. Most likely your female wouldn’t recognize her babies, so she and her mate would begin consuming them.
Let’s go over the basics and take it from there.
First, make sure you have a male and female. I suppose it is too late for this part, but you should always quarantine new herps and have them checked by a vet before introducing a new potential mate to your established pet.
Photo credit: Gina Cioli/i5Studio
Juvenile bearded dragons
Before setting up a pair of bearded dragons for breeding, it is essential that the habitat is correct for the species. There should be a temperature gradient of 77 to 88 degrees Fahrenheit with a focal basking spot of 105 degrees. The beardies should be on a balanced diet with adequate calcium. The lizards must be in optimum condition -- especially the female -- because breeding, developing eggs and then laying eggs (called oviposition) takes a lot of metabolic energy.
There should be enough room for two adult beardies to comfortably cohabitate, branches for climbing and a rock or nontoxic plant (or two) to allow one to retreat and hide from the other if necessary. Keep in mind that keeping your bearded dragons together is temporary. You will need two separate habitats in the long term as well as a suitable habitat for the hatchlings when the time comes.
Full-spectrum lighting, including UVB, is necessary for proper calcium metabolism. Either natural sunlight (not filtered through glass or plastic) or an electric bulb that produces UVB is a necessity.
For optimum fertility, provide a period of decreased temperature and daylight hours, called brummation, for two to three months or a minimum of two to four weeks. Although many beardies successfully breed without a brummation period, you can expect decreased fertility if the rest period is not provided before breeding season.
Once a sexually mature male is ready to breed, its beard darkens. He will bob his head and stamp his front feet to gain the attention of a female. He may begin chasing her around the enclosure, and he may bite the base of the female’s neck while attempting to position himself for breeding. The male then everts a hemipenis and inserts it into the female’s cloaca.
A female usually lays her eggs four to six weeks after a successful mating. While developing her eggs inside the shell gland, she will appear fuller in the abdomen, and she may eat less and less. Eventually, she may stop eating altogether, though some don’t.
To successfully breed, it is best to place the female with a male of equal size or weight. It is recommended that females not be bred until they are at least 18 months old or more than 350 grams. So, you will need two suitable habitats for your beardies, not just one.
Allow the pair to remain together for one week and then remove her for a week. Return her to the male’s cage again for another week, and remove her again for another week. Finally, put her with the male for one more week. At this time (if you have witnessed successful copulations), separate the pair and place the female in her own cage with a lay box.
A lay box is a plastic box filled with moist topsoil, or potting soil, placed in the cage at a slant. This box allows her to dig and oviposit her eggs. A female ready to lay will dig and pace to the corners of her cage.
I am not going to go into removing the eggs, incubating the eggs, hatching out neonates and caring for the hatchlings. I just wanted you to show you that a whole lot more is involved in breeding beardies than simply putting a male and female together. Breeding requires dedication, preparation, planning and knowledge of the reproductive habits of these amazing agamid lizards.
I recommend you purchase a good text on bearded dragons or spend some time visiting some of the excellent bearded dragon websites out there. They will explain in greater detail what is involved in successfully breeding beardies and hatching the eggs.
2- wikiHow to Breed Bearded Dragons
courtesy to : www.wikihow.com/Breed-Bearded-Dragons
Bearded dragons have an easy-going personality, are a reasonable size, and have an attractive appearance, all of which make them very popular to keep as pets. Bearded dragons that are kept as pets can be bred year-round, so you can breed your dragons at any point during the year. Ensuring a successful breeding will take a lot of time and preparation, so make sure that you have a full understanding of the entire process before breeding your dragons.
PART ONE : Preparing to Breed Your Bearded Dragons
2- ake your bearded dragons to your veterinarian. It is essential that your bearded dragons are in optimal condition prior to breeding. Your veterinarian can give them a thorough physical exam and let you know if they are in good health or are in need of treatment. He or she can also test your dragons for atadenovirus, which is very contagious among dragons and can cause serious disease.
Bearded dragons should not be bred if they test positive for atadenovirus, since it can be passed from mother to baby.
Keep in mind that a bearded dragon that has the virus may not be shedding it at the time of the test, leading to a false negative result. For this reason, it would be good to have your dragons tested repeatedly before breeding.
Have your veterinarian check your bearded dragons’ ages, lengths, and weights. For optimal breeding, the male should be at least 18 months old and the female should be at least 24 months old. They should both be at least 18 inches in length from snout to tail.  The female should weigh at least 350 grams.
3-Supplement your female bearded dragon’s diet. Your female will need a daily supplement that contains calcium and vitamin D. This will help ensure that her eggs will be adequately calcified and that she will not suffer from a calcium deficiency after laying her eggs. She will also need a general multivitamin.
Your female should receive this supplementation at least several weeks before breeding. Talk with your veterinarian if you have questions on how to incorporate these supplements into your female bearded dragon’s diet.
4- Prepare the breeding habitat. Although your female and male bearded dragons will only temporarily live together in the same enclosure, it is important that the enclosure is set up for an optimal breeding situation. First, the enclosure should be large enough to comfortably house two adult bearded dragons; your local pet store can help you determine the exact enclosure size that you will need.
Glass aquariums are very popular enclosures for bearded dragons, but other types are also available, including melamine cages and PVC cages. Using a screen lid cover will keep your bearded dragons from escaping and will allow for fresh air circulation.
Use a thermometer to maintain the overall temperature at 77 to 88 degrees Farenheit during the day and the mid 70’s at night.
Place a basking light (available at your local pet store) outside of the cage to provide a focal basking spot in the cage at a temperature of 105 degrees Farenheit.
Position full-spectrum light bulbs (UVA and UVB) above the enclosure, about one foot from where your dragons will likely spend most of their time. The UVA and UVB rays from the bulbs will help keep your bearded dragons healthy by helping them produce vitamin D.
Places branches and rocks in the enclosure. The branches will give your bearded dragons something to climb on, and the rocks will give your dragons opportunities to rest and hide from each other.
5- Prepare the lay box. The lay box is where your female dragon will lay her eggs. The lay box should be an eight to ten-gallon plastic container with a secure lid that allows for air circulation. Fill the box with about eight inches of either topsoil or potting soil, along with sand.
The soil mixture should be damp enough so that it lightly clumps together and is easy to dig in. The soil should not be so dry that it would cave in when she tries to bury her eggs.
6- Purchase an incubator. The eggs will need to be removed from the lay box and incubated. It would be best to purchase a pre-made incubator at your local pet store to reduce the likelihood of malfunction. The Hovabator is a commonly used incubator for bearded dragon eggs.
Fill small containers with either vermiculite or perlite (available at your local gardening store) and place them in the incubator. Press your thumb in each container to make a depression where the egg will go, and cover the container with a lid that allows for air circulation.
1- Place the eggs in the incubator. To do this, lift the eggs with your hands or a spoon. It is important to be extremely gentle when you are transferring the freshly laid eggs from the lay box to the incubator. As best you can, keep them in the same orientation as you found them in the lay box. It may be helpful to mark the top of the egg with a pencil to keep you from accidentally turning it upside down when placing it in the incubator.
Place each egg in an individual container in the incubator. The egg should fit snugly within the thumb depression that you made earlier. Make sure that the egg is not covered with the vermiculite or perlite and place the lid on the container.
7-Prepare your bearded dragons for brumation. Brumation is the process of decreasing the temperature and photoperiod (lighting schedule) for your bearded dragons. When the male and female are in their separate cages, decrease the temperature to 80 degrees Farenheit during the day and 60 degrees Farenheit at night. Decrease their exposure to light: 10 hours of light and 14 hours of darkness.
You will probably notice that your dragons will eat less and hide more during brumation. They probably will not bask as much either. After brumation, they will want to resume their usual diet.
Brumation should last at least two to three months before breeding.
PART TWO : Breeding Your Bearded Dragons
1- Place your bearded dragons in the breeding enclosure. Your dragons probably will not mate right away, and will need some time to adjust to their new surroundings. Making this enclosure ready for them beforehand will get them more comfortable. When the male is ready to breed, his beard will darken to black.
2- Observe the courtship behavior. Your bearded dragons will exhibit courtship behaviors before the actual mating. Both your male and female will start bobbing their heads; the female may also start waving one of her arms to indicate her receptiveness to be bred. Your male may also stomp his feet and chase your female around the enclosure.
Your bearded dragons may also twitch their tails as a courtship behavior.
3- Observe the mating behavior. To mate, your male will quickly climb on the back of your female and bite her neck; biting her neck keeps her from running off before the mating process is complete. Your male will then press his cloacal region against that of your female. The entire mating process only take a few minutes.
4- Return your bearded dragons to their separate cages after one week. It is recommended to leave your dragons together for about a week after mating. After this one week, place them in their separate cages for one week. Put them together for another week for another mating session. You may need to do this several times to ensure a successful mating.
Continue to feed your female her supplements after the mating. Increasing her exercise and keeping her well hydrated after mating will help her be better prepared to lay her eggs.
1- Observe changes in the egg’s appearance. Just prior to hatching, the eggs may begin to deflate and develop water droplets. These changes are completely normal and should not be confused with signs that the egg is infertile. You will also see a slit in the eggs exterior, which is caused by a baby bearded dragon’s egg tooth on the tip of their snout. The baby will make a slit large enough to fit its snout and head through, and will rest with its head out for about one day.
PART THREE : Letting Your Female Dragon Lay Her Eggs
1- Observe her in her separate cage. Your female will demonstrate behavior that shows that she is ready to lay her eggs. She may start pacing her cage and looking a little anxious. She will also eat less and frantically dig in her cage. When she is exhibiting this behavior, gently move her to the lay box so that she can lay her eggs.
You will also be able to easily see that her belly is full of eggs. You will be able to see the outlines of the eggs, which will look like small marbles.
Egg laying typically occurs about four to six weeks after mating.
2- Allow your female dragon to lay her eggs in the lay box. You will see her digging in the enclosure to create an area to lay her eggs. It may not be easy to tell when she has laid her eggs, especially if you didn’t see her do it. If this is the case, you will know that she has laid eggs when you see that her belly looks more deflated and flat. Remove her from the lay box after she has laid her eggs.
If you do not think that your female has laid all of her eggs, take her to your veterinarian immediately. She may be suffering from egg binding, which is a serious medical condition that would keep her from laying her eggs.
Female bearded dragons typically lay their eggs in the afternoon or early evening. You may want to start watching her around this time of day to see if she looks ready to lay her eggs.
Females usually lay between about 24 eggs at a time, but can also lay as few as15 and as many as 50. A group of eggs is called a clutch.
3- Remove your female bearded dragon from the lay box. After she has laid her eggs, she should be placed back in her original cage. In general, female bearded dragons are not very maternal. Also, captive female bearded dragons tend not to guard their eggs.
PART FOUR : Incubating the Eggs
2- Maintain the incubator temperature at 82 to 86 degrees Farenheit. Use a digital thermometer to monitor the temperature. If the temperature gets too hot within the incubator, the embryos could die inside the eggs. The incubator should be in a room that is cooler than the temperature inside the incubator; a warmer room would increase the incubator’s temperature, which puts the embryos at risk.
The incubator’s humidity should be maintained at around 80%. Placing a bowl of water within the incubator will help to maintain the humidity level. Refill the water as needed.
Check the temperature daily and the humidity about twice a week.
3- Monitor the eggs on a regular basis. Pay close attention to see if the eggs look wet or overly dry. Condensation on the eggs can be deadly to the embryos, so it is very important to make sure that the eggs do not have any moisture on them. If they look wet, take the lid off the incubator for 24 hours to release the excess humidity and let the vermiculite or perlite dry.
If the eggs look dimpled or look like they’re about to collapse, they may be too dry. Use room temperature water to dampen the vermiculite, making sure not to make it so damp that the egg gets wet.
Healthy and fertile eggs will increase to about twice their original size and turn chalk white. Eggs that are yellow, pink, or green may not be fertile.
Eggs with mold on them may or may not be fertile. Talk with your veterinarian if you are unsure what to do with the moldy eggs.
The eggs will begin to hatch in about 60 to 70 days.
PART Five : Hatching and Caring for the Bearded Dragon Babies
2- Avoid helping the baby bearded dragons emerge from their eggs. Let the babies hatch on their own, which will typically take about 24 to 36 hours. You will probably notice that all of eggs will hatch within a day or two of each other.
Keep the babies in the incubator for their first 24 hours of life to help them adjust to their new environment.
Remove any babies that did not survive.
3- Group the baby dragons together according to size. Line their enclosure with moist paper towels, which will help keep them hydrated during their first few weeks of life. You can also lightly mist them with water until they begin drinking water on their own. In terms of food, the yolk from their individual eggs will provide them with nutrition for a few days, so you can wait until around day 3 to feed them real food (crickets, chopped greens).
You will need at least a 20 gallon tank to hold the baby dragons. They will need larger tanks as they grow older.
Provide the babies with plenty of food so that they do not begin nipping at each other’s toes or tails. 
Place the larger and more dominant babies in a separate enclosure so that the smaller ones can eat. 
3- Other Website For Breeding Besarded dragons :
4- Morphs :
- Bearded Dragons Types, Colors, and Species
courtesy to : www.thebeardeddragon.org/types-of-bearded-dragons.php
There are many different types, colors, and species of bearded dragons. This page will cover all the different varieties that you can get.
Bearded Dragon Breeding Background Info :
Bearded dragons come in a range of sizes and colors. This is done by carefully breading two or more bearded dragons together with specific traits to produce bearded dragon offspring with desired characteristics. Oftentimes bearded dragon breeders will use certain words to describe the beardies they are selling that many people may not understand. This section will go over everything you need to know about these bearded dragons.
Normal - Bearded dragon offspring from breeding two bearded dragons with different traits.
Hypo - Bearded dragon offspring from breeding two bearded dragons with hypomelanism traits. Generally the offspring are lighter in color and have a sigificant reduction of dark colors in the skin, eyes, and nails.
Trans - Bearded dragon offspring from breeding two bearded dragons with translucent traits which makes their skin appear to be slightly translucent/see-through. Generally trans bearded dragons have solid black eyes.
Hypo Trans - Bearded dragons that lack dark colors and have slightly transparent/translucent skin.
Het Hypo - Bearded dragons that carry the hypomelanism trait, yet do not display it visually. If a het hypo produces offspring, some of the offspring may show the hypomelanism trait while others don't (this is largely depndant on the traits of bearded dragon which it was bred with).
Het Trans - Bearded dragons that carry the translucent trait, yet do not display it visually. When they produce offspring, some of the offspring may show the translucent trait, while others may not (this depends on the traits of the other bearded dragon which was mated).
Double Het - Bearded dragons that carry both the hypomelanism and translucent traits, yet do not display them visually. Their offspring may or may not show these traits, depending on the traits carried by the other bearded dragon which was used to mate.
Hypo Het Trans - Bearded dragons that show the hypomelanism trait, yet carry (and don't display) the translucent traits.
Trans Het Hypo - Bearded dragons that show the translucent trait, yet carry (and don't display) the hypomelanism trait.
Bearded Dragon Types ( Morphs )
There are several different types of bearded dragons. Generally the types have less to do with their color and more to do with the bearded dragon's sizeand appearance. Below are some different types of bearded dragons:
Bearded Dragon Colors
In nature, the color of a bearded dragon was dependent upon its habitat. However, because of selective breeding you can get bearded dragons in just about every color.
How Selective Breeding Works
Selective breeding is the process of mating two specific bearded dragons with each other to produce offspring that have specific traits you want. For example, if you find a male and female bearded dragon that contain a lot of red coloring, their offspring will have even more red coloring.
Since selective breeding can produce so many color variations of bearded dragons, it would be pointless to list all the different names the breeders have given their specific breed. However, you can classify all the colors into the following categories:
Red Bearded Dragons
Red bearded dragons are bred by breeding two different dragons with a high amount of red coloring. This causes their offspring to have a much more red appearance. The more generations that are bred, the deeper the red coloring can become.
By breeding red dragons with different colored dragons, you can produce a variety of uniquely colored dragons.
The following is a list of bearded dragons that have a mostly red appearance:
Red bearded dragon
Blood-red bearded dragon
Ruby red bearded dragon
German Giant Bearded Dragons
The German giant dragons are bred by mating dragons that are larger in size than the average dragon. By doing this with every generation they have developed a breed of dragons that are generally 50% larger than regular bearded dragons. These dragons come in a variety of different colors, however since they are usually specifically bred most breeders will produce German giants in unique colors.
Leatherback Bearded Dragons:
Leatherback dragons have a mutated gene which prevents their scales from growing to full size. This gives them a larger number of smaller scales which make the dragon appear and feel smoother. The smaller scales also help increase the coloring of the dragon. These dragons come in a variety of different colors, however since they are usually specifically bred most breeders will produce leatherbacks in unique colors.
Silkback Bearded Dragons :
Silkbacks are bred by mating two leatherback dragons. The end result is new dragons with an even smoother appearance. Generally the scales are so small on some silkbacks that they look as smooth as skin. These dragons come in a variety of different colors, however since they are usually specifically bred most breeders will produce slickbacks in unique colors.
The following is a list of bearded dragons that have a mix of red with other colors:
Sandfire red bearded dragon
Orange bearded dragon
Citrus tiger bearded dragon
Sunburst bearded dragon
Tangerine bearded dragon
Yellow Bearded Dragons
Yellow bearded dragons are bred by breeding two different dragons with a high amount of yellow coloring. This causes their offspring to have a much more yellow appearance. The more generations that are bred, the deeper the yellow coloring can become. When breeders combine yellow dragons with red dragons they will often produce dragons that are golden in appearance.
The following is a list of bearded dragons that have a mostly yellow appearance:
Gold bearded dragon
Lemon fire bearded dragon
Citrus bearded dragon
Sandfire gold bearded dragon
Yellow bearded dragon
The following is a list of bearded dragons with a mix of yellow and other colors:
Sandfire red bearded dragon
Orange bearded dragon
Citrus tiger bearded dragon
Sunburst bearded dragon
Tangerine bearded dragon
White Bearded Dragons
White dragons are bred by mating two dragons with white or pale coloring to produce a new generation of dragons that have a lighter color.
The following is a list of bearded dragons that are white or pale:
Albino bearded dragon
Snow bearded dragon
Standard colors of bearded dragons are generally a mix of green, tan, yellow, and red colors. Most bearded dragons come in these shades and you generally only find solid colored bearded dragons from selective breeders.
Bearded Dragons ( Pogona ) - Introduction
- SPECIES : - Pogona vitticeps ( Central Bearded dragon)- Introduction
Bearded Dragons ( Pogona ) - Introduction
- SPECIES : - Pogona vitticeps ( Central Bearded dragon)- Introduction