Psittacula krameri ( Indian Ringneck Parakeets ) care :
Noble Parakeet, Rose-ringed Parakeet
The Indian Ringneck Parakeet has been referred to as the "Noble Parakeet"! The species, Psittacula krameri, is also called the Rose-ringed Parakeet and contains four subspecies.
The Rose-ringed Parakeet, which includes the Indian Ringneck and the African Ringneck subspecies, is the most widely scattered member of the race of parrots and is spread throughout Asia and parts of Africa. They are found in India, China, Ceylon, Africa, Tibet, Nepal and many adjacent islands.
The Indian Ringneck Parakeet originated in Ceylon. TheAfrican Ringneck Parakeet, its close cousin, is found from west Africa to the Southern Sudan.
Indian Ringneck Parakeets, along with their close cousin the African Ringneck Parakeets, Psittacula krameri krameri, belong in the Psittacula genus that are known as Ringneck Parakeets. The species, Psittacula krameri, is also called the Rose-ringed Parakeet and contains four subspecies. The Psittacula genus has the distinguishing characteristic of a colored collar going around the head in the males, or a pronounced stripe running through the chin area.
The Indian Ringneck Parakeets have been held in admiration and esteem since ancient times. They are a large parakeet, sought after for the superiority in their form and beauty, their ability to speak, their intelligence and trainability, and because they are easy to breed. ThIs parakeet, the Indian Ringneck Parakeet, has been a long time favorite for bird lovers! There are many color combinations that can be produced, which is a fun challenge and fascination for many breeders! Check out theMore Photos for really cool examples of the different colored ringneck parakeets.
The normal coloration of the male Indian Ringneck Parakeet is a general green with its lower abdomen area being lighter and the back of the head has a bluish tint. A black ring that runs thought the chin and along the cheek. There it blends into a pink collar with some blue on the nape. The central tail feathers are bluish, tipped with a yellow green, and the outer tail feathers are green. The upper mandible of the beak is a red-orange and the lower mandible is black. Through domestic breeding, there is a large variety of color variations, or mutations available.
The female and immature male has no black ring, pink collar, or blue tint on the back of the head. Juveniles also have a coral pink beak with a pale tip. The young reach their adult plumage after their second full molt, at about 3 years of age. These birds grow to a length of 16" (40 cm).
The African Ringneck Parakeet is very similar in coloration to the Indian Ringneck but the facial coloring and the rose collar is less prominent on the African males. They also have a smaller beak, with the upper mandible being a dark red becoming almost black on the tip. Though the African Ringneck has a smaller, shorter body than the Indian Ringneck they have a longer tail, so overall they reach up to a length of 17" (43.5 cm).
Care and Feeding:
Fresh food and water must be provided daily.
In the wild, Indian Ringneck Parakeets eat a variety of seeds, berries, fruits, nuts, blossoms, and nectar. In addition to these foods, you can offer them vegetables and commercial pellets. They also enjoy the same nutritional foods humans eat, including cooked chicken. Cooked beans, rice, and grains are also enjoyed, but soft foods like these will spoil in about 4 hours. An occasional millet spray is a nice treat.
See About Parakeets: Care and Feeding for more detailed information.
A a roomy cage is required as these are large parakeets.
See About Parakeets: Housing for more extensive housing information.
The basic cage care includes daily cleaning of the water and food dishes. Weekly you should wash all the perches and dirty toys, and the floor should be washed about every other week. A total hosing down and disinfecting of an aviary should be done yearly, replacing anything that needs to be freshened, such as old dishes, toys and perches.
In the wild, these birds live in flocks and are very social. They have a pleasant nature but will develop a screaming habit if teased.
The Indian Ringneck Parakeet is smart! Besides learning to talk, these parakeets are known to be great at learning tricks. Some have been taught to string beads on a rope, twirl sticks about their head, ring a bell, and pick up selected objects.
See About Parakeets: Handling and Training for detailed information.
Parakeets are very energetic birds! Besides flying, which is important for all parakeets, these birds love to chew! Be sure you provide them with lots of assorted toys and wood chews, perches and swings.
Unlike many parakeets, Ringneck Parakeets do not bond with a mate for life, but they are easily bred. Each pair will need two nesting boxes to choose from. Once the nest box is selected the female will lay two to six eggs. The incubation time is between 22 and 24 days and the young will leave the nest about six to seven weeks after they hatch.
See About Parakeets: Breeding and Reproduction for more information.
These parakeets can have a loud scream.
See About Parakeets: Potential Problems for more information.
Indian Ringneck Parakeets are available at pet stores or from breeders at reasonable prices. They can be obtained in a variety of color mutations, including the Indian Ringneck Lutino.
Psittacula krameri breeding
Nesting / Breeding :
Rose-ringed Ringnecks are cavity nesters. In nature, they will seek out tree holes for nesting and in captivity they freely accept nesting boxes. Even though pets are commonly kept in cages, breeders or small groups of them do best in walk-in aviaries. The minimum size of the flight should be 14.7 feet (~4.5 meters). Captive birds readily accept nest boxes. They favor vertical (tall boxes). A suitable nest box size would be box: 12" x 12" x 18" (30.5cm x 30.5cm x 45.7cm).
The average clutch consists of 4 – 6 eggs, which are incubated for about 23- 24 days.
The hatchlings weigh about 0.2 oz (5 g) each, but they grow fast and are able to leave the nest seven weeks later.
AFRICAN RINGNECKS IN CAPTIVITY :
Psittacula krameri diseases:
Ringneck Parrots are generally hardy birds. However, the following diseases have been reported in this species:
Aspergillosis (fungal disease)
The African Ringneck is not as popular as their larger cousin the Indian Ringneck. They simply fell out of favor due to a lack of available mutations and because they were smaller in size. Unfortunately, many parrot breeders prefer the Indian Ringneck over the African Ringneck. Perhaps for this reason, there are so few African Ringnecks kept as pets. Those that do own an African Ringneck will find them to be marvelous creatures that bring a great deal of joy to their households.
Most often these birds are collected in exclusive aviaries or parrot breeders who marvel over Asiatic parrots in general. These birds are slowly making their way into the pet industry due to their great disposition.
AFRICAN RINGNECKS AS PETS :
African Ringnecks make wonderful pets if handfed and purchased just after weaning. Like the Alexandrine Parrot, African Ringnecks are much more docile compared to Indian Ringnecks. They are less aggressive and much easier to handle. They have a big parrot personality packed in a small body. They will gladly sit on their owner’s shoulder and enjoy being out of their cage. These smaller-sized parrots enjoy being petted alongside their neck; however, they are not too keen on being petted throughout their bodies.
Like most Asiatic parrots, African Ringnecks would much rather interact with their owners than be cuddled, none the less, they do form strong bonds. Most tamed African Ringnecks enjoy human handling and will thrive for this type of interaction. If the African Ringneck was not handfed, take precaution when handling them as they can bite hard. Taming the parrot should be done with positive reinforcement and a gentile approach. This process may take some time but it is well worth the effort.
African Ringnecks are marvelous talkers; the males being more gifted than the females. Most start to talk around eight months but many will hold off until they are at least a year old. Before the bird has mastered talking, it will go through a babbling stage that may last weeks or even months. This practicing stage is usually an indicator of the bird’s curiosity to mimic speech. Once the parrot has mastered a few words, many more will follow if the owner spends enough time working with the bird. The best way to teach the African Ringneck to talk is through daily interaction. Using tapes with repetitive recordings and phrases are outdated and will quickly bore the bird. A well tamed and socialized ringneck is much more responsive to the human voice and will almost always pay attention to their owner’s mouth. To develop a parrot with a larger vocabulary, the owner must talk to the parrot in an excited voice and continue to repeat favorite words
Though African Ringnecks can be gifted when it comes to talking, there is no guarantee that your bird will begin talking. Those that become exceptional talkers are those that have been handfed, tamed as young birds, and who have had the opportunity to hear human speech early in their lives. Take this into consideration before purchasing an African Ringneck, but if the bird is already talking, take this as an extra perk. Unfortunately, many owners purchase these parrots to hear them talk and are often disappointed when the bird doesn’t. The results are usually devastating and the bird is then ignored. This can lead to destructive behaviors that need a great deal of rehabilitation; sometimes resulting in problems that can never be fixed.
BREEDING AFRICAN RINGNECKS :
Breeding African Ringnecks seems to be a bit more challenging than breeding Alexandrine Parakeets or Indian Ringnecks as they tend to be a bit more finicky about their nesting locations and inspections. They need a bit more privacy as they become scared easily and will flutter around the aviary. The bird’s nesting box should be placed high enough to allow the pair to feel secure about their nesting site and the breeder should have easy access to the box. Whistling before entering the aviary is a good idea as this will alert the parrots upon the breeder’s entry.
Their breeding cage should be as large as the breeder can afford and should be big enough to allow the ringnecks ample room to fly when not in a breeding mode. Using smaller wire to protect the birds is ideal as rodents and other critters can easily make their way into the enclosure if not secured. A good breeding cage is usually around six feet in length, four feet in width, and eight feet in height.
Just before the breeding season begins the male will become vocal and start to display himself to the female. He will start to bow, pin his eyes, and open his wings and tail feathers while making courting calls. The female will become more responsive to the male by becoming more affectionate. They will start to feed each other and preen each other as the days continue. During this time many breeders will observe their females inside the nesting box scratching around. Pine shavings should be added into the nesting box before the season begins. Throughout this scratching phase, the female might remove the wood shaving placed inside her box by the breeder. Simply replace a handful of wood shaving until the box is padded again. It is important the shaving be about an inch thick as too much can easily result in the eggs getting buried during incubation.
If the conditions are right for the parrots and they have bonded, the pair will mate and eggs can be expected around one to two weeks later. The female will produce between two and five white eggs. Incubation of the eggs lasts 23 days.
The mother African Ringneck will stay with her babies until the chicks start to grow their feathers. As the food demand increases, she will leave the nest and help the father feed the babies until the babies fledge (leave the nest). The babies will wean around 10 weeks; however, if they are pulled for hand feeding, they should be removed when the oldest chick is at least 15 days old. Babies who wean with their mothers will do so more quickly than those handfed by humans. A handfed baby can take as long as 13 weeks.
CAGING AND TOYS FOR YOUR AFRICAN RINGNECK
Your parrot’s cage needs to be larger than a cockatiel cage. These parrots have long tails and need to climb and play with plenty of room. A good rule of thumb when shopping for a cage is to make sure the parrot can turn around, hang upside down, and flap its wings without touching the cage bars. A good spacious cage will allow plenty of room for toys, food/water bowls, and your hands. It is important the bars do not have large gaps as a curious parrot can either escape or get its head stuck. The cage should be easy to clean and food and water bowls should not be placed under the parrot’s perch. If extra room is available inside the cage, adding a few extra perches with different diameters will allow the parrot to exercise its feet. The cage should have a grill affixed inside the bottom of the cage to prevent access to contaminated food and the bird’s droppings.
Pet ringnecks need a great deal of toys and mental stimulation to remain happy and healthy. Having a play stand with toys is essential for these birds. African Ringnecks do not chew as much as their larger cousins so mirrors, beads, and small wooden toys are ideal. Ropes for climbing and swings are also enjoyed. Never overfill the cage with too many toys and always rotate them to keep the parrot simulated and interested. Hiding a few treats throughout the parrot’s cage (for foraging) is wonderful and a fun way to stimulate the bird’s mind. All the bird’s toys should be placed above any perches to avoid becoming pooped on.
If your parrot is fearful of a new toy do not place it inside the cage. Instead, gradually introduce the toy to your African Ringneck. Many owners will place a new toy across the room and will daily inch it towards the cage. Adding treats around the new toy will most likely cause the parrot to investigate the new object. This daily exposure is a great way to introduce new objects without frightening the bird.
FEEDING A HEALTHY DIET TO THE AFRICAN RINGNECK
A well socialized African Ringneck will enjoy a variety of foods. A healthy diet consists of pellets, seeds, fruits, and vegetables. These parrots enjoy steamed carrots, pumpkin, or corn. Fruits and vegetables can be cut into cubes throughout the week and placed into the refrigerator for safekeeping. Small cuts of protein can be given to the parrot on occasion. Protein foods such a chicken,
beef, or cooked eggs can be given to the parrot but must be removed after a few hours to avoid spoilage. These protein items must be given minimally and should never be the sole base of the diet.
Food items to avoid are avocado, fruit seeds, onions, chocolate, and alcohol. These items could result in death.
Unlike their larger cousins, African Ringnecks are much more prone to only eating seeds if given the chance. Many owners will gradually have to mix in new foods with their seeds to slowly get them accustomed to a varied diet. If this is the case, never just remove the seeds for a picky ringneck. Most African Ringnecks will starve to death and will refuse to eat it if they do not recognize the new food item.
If a proper diet is given to the parrot from the beginning, and the bird is taken to the vet regularly, most African Ringnecks can live happily for 20 or more years. Some birds have been reported to reach the rightful age of 28.
2- Blossom-Headed Parakeet :
We Recommend to see this Website :
How To Tame a parrot - How To Teach An Untamed Indian Ringneck Parrot To Step Up
Parrots in India
Paco the African Ringneck
Scientific Name: Psittacula roseata
Size: 12 inches (including tail)
Native Region: Northeast India
Life Expectancy: 20 to 30 years
Noise Level: Loud
Talk/Trick Ability: Good
Traits: Blossom-headed parakeets are rare and therefore are not commonly kept as pets. The male blossom-headed parakeet has beautiful coloring, including a pink head that becomes pale blue on the back of the crown, nape and cheeks, as well as a narrow black neck collar and a black chin stripe. As a general rule, Psittacula species such as the blossom-headed parakeet are friendly and noisy. They have very good talking and whistling abilities.
Behavior/Health Concerns: Psittacula parakeets can form bonds with one person (usually their owners) and, because of this, could refuse to interact with other people — they may even bite people other than their owner. They can also exhibit jealousy of other family members or pets. For this reason, positive reinforcement training is a good idea for Psittacula parakeets. Owners should be cautious in multiple-pet bird homes.
Psittacula roseata [Biswas 1951]
1. Psittacula roseata roseata (Biswas 1951)
2. Psittacula roseata juneae (Biswas 1951)
Description: Green; head pink, becoming violet-blue on back of crown and nape; black cheek-stripe and narrow band to nape adjoining blue-green band; lower back and under wing-coverts green; brown-red patch to wing coverts; middle tail-feathers blue with pale yellow tips; outer tail-feathers yellow-green with pale yellow tips; upper mandible orange-yellow; lower mandible brownish-black; iris whitish-yellow; feet grey.
Hen with blue-grey head and yellowish collar; dark red patch to wing coverts much smaller; upper mandible pale yellowish, lower mandible whitish-grey.
Immatures with greenish head and often grey tinge to chin; upper and lower mandible yellowish; both sexes attain adult hen colouring at 15 months; cocks attain cock adult plumage by 30 months.
Length: 30 cm, wing length 128 - 148 mm, tail length 141 - 179 mm.
Distribution: Western Bengal and Southern Assam to East Pakistan, Bangla Desh and Northern Burma.
Psittacula r. roseata
Psittacula r. juneae
Pet Quality / Training and Behavioral Guidance:
As these parakeets are so rare, experts prefer any captive birds to be placed into a well-managed breeding program. If for some reason, an individual is unsuitable for breeding and you are considering it for your aviary or as pet, you may want to consider the following.
Ringneck parrots are less demanding than other parrot species, which makes them an excellent choice for someone who wants to "step up" from an easy-going and easy-care cockatiel or budgie.
Consistent training and behavioral guidance from a young age is recommended to ensure potential owners enjoy a bird free of destructive and annoying habits.
Burmese Blossom-headed Parakeet
Description: As roseata, but plumage generally slightly paler and more yellowish; brown-red patch to wing-coverts slightly larger; middle tail-feathers very slightly paler blue; outer feathers paler yellow-green.
Hen and immatures as in nominate type, but plumage likewise generally more yellowish.
Length: 30 cm, wing length 126 - 142 mm, tail length 129 - 170 mm.
Distribution: Southernmost Assam and Southern Burma East across Thailand to Laos, Cambodia and Vietnam.
Note: The Blossom-headed Parakeet has been known as a sub-specie of the Plumheaded Parakeet (Psittacula cyanocephala) for centuries. Boddaert named in 1753 the Blossomheaded Parakeet Psittacula cyanocephala rosa as a sub-specie of the Plumheaded Parakeet (Psittacula cyanocephala). The actual name as an own specie which is known at the time, Blossomheaded Parakeet (Psittacula r. roseata), has been given by Biswas in 1951.
Habitat: Wooded areas to 1,500 m; secondary forest and partially cleared areas; dry and humid savannah with bushes and trees; prefers forest edges adjoining cultivated areas.
Status: Only common in localities; has already disappeared in many areas because of habitat destruction and trapping for trade.
Behaviour: Nomadic in pairs or flocks of up to 20 birds; direction determined by food availability; occasionally associates with Moustached Parakeet (Psittacula alexandri); flight swift and direct;
Call: Oraucous, cackling cries during flight.
Natural diet: Seeds, fruits, flowers and leaf buds; forages in fruit plantations and paddy fields in some regions.
Nesting: Breeding season in Burma from March to May; no further details known; egg measures 25.1 x 21.0 mm.
Aviculture: Quiet parakeet, seldom heard; initially very shy, later confiding; newly imported birds susceptible and difficult to acclimatise; later hardy; very active in aviary; often apathetic in small cage; enjoys bathing; not particularly hard chewer; but enjoys nibbling at fresh branches; peaceable in communal aviary; cannot assert itself with larger birds; susceptible to cold, wet conditions.
Accommodation: Outside flight 3 x 1 x 2 m with adjoining shelter; can be planted; minimum temperature 10°C; not less than 20°C during acclimatisation; provide roosting box 22 x 22 x 60 cm from outset.
Diet: Seed mix of safflower, wild bird food, buckwheat, some sunflower, various millets, canary grass seed, oats and hemp; millet spray ( also sprouted); fruit ( apple, kiwi,orange), greenfood and vegetables (carrot, sweet pepper, cucumber; eggfood and biscuit for rearing.
Clutch: 4 - 5 eggs.
Incubation: 23 days.
Breeding: Seldom achieved; breeding begins mostly in April; clutch 4 to 5 eggs; incubation 23 days; fledging period 7 weeks; young independent after 14 days; hen occasionally aggressive to cock; two breedings a year possible.
Mutations: A Lutino mutation was known, but it seemed to be the Lutino Slaty-headed parakeet; there are rumors of a Blue mutation.
P. r. roseata and P. cyanocephala Cocks
Photo: Z. Rana
1.Psittacula r. roseata Cock
Photo: Z. Rana
2.Psittacula r. juneae Cock and Hen
Photo: H. Müller / Vogelpark Walsrode
Psittacula r. juneae Cock
Photo: Z. Rana
Psittacula r. roseata Hen and Cock
Photo: Z. Rana
Psittacula r. roseata Hen
Photo: Z. Rana
The Blossom-headed Parakeet (Psittacula roseata) is native to northeast India eastwards into Southeast Asia. It undergoes local movements, driven mainly by the availability of the fruit and blossoms which make up a large part of its diet.
The Blossom-headed Parakeet is a bird of forest and open woodland. It nests in holes in trees, laying 4-5 white eggs.
The Blossom-headed Parakeet is a gregarious and noisy species with range of raucous calls
This is a green parrot, about 12 inches (30 cm) long with the tail accounting for more than half of that length. They weigh, on average, 2.5 to 3 ounces (~ 75 - 85g).
The male's head is pink becoming pale blue on the back of the crown, nape (back of the neck) and cheeks. There is a narrow black neck collar and a black chin stripe. There is a red shoulder patch and the rump and tail are bluish-green, the latter tipped yellow. The upper beak is yellow, and the lower beak is dark.
The female has a pale grey head and lacks the black neck collar and chin stripe patch. The lower beak (mandible) is
pale. Immature birds have a green head and a grey chin. Both upper and lower beak are yellowish and there is no red shoulder patch.
Female attain their adult plumage at 15 months and males by 30 months.
There are a couple of possible mutations listed on
Similar Species ID: This species if often confused with the Blossom-headed Parakeet. The malePlum-headed Parakeet has a darker red head, while the male Blossom-headed Parakeet's head is pink. The Blossom-headed Parakeets have yellow tail tips, while the Plum-headed Parakeet has white tail tips.
Breeding the Blossom-headed Parakeets:
These parakeets are rare and expensive and require experienced breeders. Immature Blossom-headed Parakeets, Slaty headed and Plum headed Parrotsare almost identical so if you purchase young birds, be sure to do so only from a reputable breeder.
To ensure breeding success, each pair is best provides its own aviary. Do not house them with Slaty-headed Parakeetst or Plum-headed Parrots to avoid hybridization. Blossom headed parrots make attractive aviary occupants and are generally not aggressive to smaller birds. The Blossom headed parrot is usually quiet and are not very destructive of timber.
The hen is usually the dominant bird. She reaches breeding age at about 3 years. New pairs should be introduced to each other several months prior to the start of the breeding season so the birds have plenty of time to establish a strong bond between each other. A good pair bond will usually result in better breeding results.
Housing and Diet:
The minimum aviary size should be about 10 feet (3 meters) in length and 3 to 3.5 feet (about one meter) wide. Double wiring between each aviary flight is necessary. Non-toxic leafy branches can be placed in the aviary for the birds to chew up. This will entertain the birds and give the birds some beak exercise. Natural branches of various diameters, and placed at various angles, make great perches; and satisfies their need for chewing.
This parrot should be provided a quality parrot seed mix along with a variety of fruits and vegetables. Seeding grasses and green can be offered.Sprouted or germinated seeds are usually more easily accepted by "seed addicts" than fresh fruits and vegetables.
Dimensions are average and can vary widely, influenced by the bird's and the owner's preferences. Parent bird's preferences can be influenced by the size and type of nest-box / log in which they have been raised. Offering a choice of sizes and types of logs or nest-boxes, and placed in various locations within the aviary, will allow the parent birds to make their own choice. Once a pair has chosen a specific nest-box/log and been successful in it, offer that one to them each breeding season. Once a pair has chosen its log or nest-box, the other ones can generally be removed.
The length of a nest box / log should approximate 20 inches. A log's internal diameter about 8 to 9 inches square; and the internal diameters of a nest box about 9 to 10 inches square. The inspection hole should be around 4 inches (square or round). A removable top / lid is recommended for easy inspections and for cleaning. The best location for the nest box / log is high in the covered part of the aviary, but not too close to the roof to be affected by heat from the roof in the summer months.
Wood nest-boxes generally require a climbing structure attached inside the box below the entrance hole. Many species of parrots like the entrance hole to be just big enough to squeeze through.
Sprouted seeds are healthier as the sprouting changes and enhances the nutritional quality and value of seeds and grains. Sprouted seeds are lower in fat, as the process of sprouting utilizes the fat in the seed to start the growing process - thus reducing the fat stored in the seeds.
Sprouted seeds will help balance your bird’s diet by adding a nutritious supply of high in vegetable proteins, vitamins, minerals, enzymes, and chlorophyll.
Soaked and germinated "oil" seeds, like niger and rape seeds, are rich in protein and carbohydrates; while "starch" seeds, such as canary and millets, are rich in carbohydrates, but lower in protein.
It is an invaluable food at all times; however, it is especially important for breeding or molting birds. Sprouted seeds also serve as a great rearing and weaning food as the softened shell is easier to break by chicks and gets them used to the texture of seeds.
They generally nest in July / August. producing one clutch per year, with about 4 to 6 eggs each clutch. Both the male and female incubate the eggs for 22 to 24 days. The chicks stay in the next box for about 7 to 8 weeks and are independent within another 2 to 3 weeks after that.
The young are often left with the parent birds for a while after they fledged, and this will generally not cause any problems as the Blossom-headed parrot usually only produce one clutch a year. The extra time with the parents will provide young birds with additional opportunities to learn from them. If, however, aggression is observed the affected bird or birds need to be separated.
Inexperienced young blossom-headed parakeets often fly into the wire mesh of the aviary and this can cause injury or even death of a bird. Attaching leafy branches at the end of the aviary will reduce this problem.
Psittacula roseata diseases :