On top of that, Cockatoos are very intelligent and inquisitive birds, and they love to show off!
A Cockatoo will make comical displays with outspread wings, head bobbing, dancing, and loud calls. These birds are very active and curious about their environment. A happy cockatoo spends most of its waking time performing, or examining and manipulating its toys and other cage objects.
Because of their loving quailties and intelligence, Cockatoos have a very high need for attention, affection, and interaction. A single cockatoo will thrive as your pet only if you devote time and attention to it. You will need to spend a good deal of time playing with it and sharing affections on a regular daily basis.
However, two pet cockatoos can be ideal if you are not able to devote so much time and attention as the bird will demand. Bored cockatoos are notorious for developing bad habits such as screeching and feather plucking. Having two will help to prevent bad habits from developing by a bored bird.
The cockatoos natural habitats are found over large areas of Australia and Indonesia. Cockatoos in the wild are found in three very distinct ranges. They are found in the tropical rainforests which are wet with high temperatures, on the grassy plains, and on the dry savannahs.
The term "cockatoo" is a Malaysian word thought to have possibly two meanings, "pincher" or "old father". The term 'pincher' is definitely descriptive as the cockatoos have extremely powerful beaks. A cockatoo can take apart or demolish a wooden toy in no time!
These birds both look and behave differently than any of the other parrots, and are some of the longest lived.
These birds both look and behave differently than any of the other parrots, and are some of the longest lived.
Description: Cockatoos mostly have a single color plumage, either white or dark. They have "erectile crests", which is a mobile crest of feathers. Their beaks are enormously powerful and they can easily demolish objects.
Age and Life Span: It is difficult to determine the age of a cockatoo, however young cockatoos will have a beak that is smooth and pale and their plumage will be paler, while an older bird's beak will be darker and have striations and their plumage will have a fuller coloration. Cockatoos are thought to be the longest lived of all parrots with examples cited of the Greater Sulphur-Crested Cockatoo having lived over 100 years.
Sex Differences: On most species of Cockatoo, the eye iris of the female will become red to red-brown after about two years. This helps to determine the sex of the bird. However the eye coloration is not so pronounced on some species. On these birds, the sex must be determined by either a surgical probe, endoscopy, or by a DNA testing. Endoscopy can be done by many veterinarians. DNA testing is done usually with a blood sample or a few plucked feathers that are sent to be diagnosed in a lab.
Cockatoos can’t seem to shake the “velcro bird,” moniker. These birds have a tendency to want to be everywhere their people are. The cockatoo’s cuddly nature is definitely one of its biggest draws. The key to healthy, happy cockatoo relationship, however, is a balance of independent play and scheduled human interaction. After all, of all the species of companion parrot, cockatoos, would be most likely to find themselves on the therapist’s couch to deal with co-dependency issues, complaining, if they could, “I just want to be loved and appreciated.”
Cockatoos, can be quite vocal, which can make for a tricky situation for those who have close neighbors. Companion cockatoos come in two sizes: large cockatoos and small cockatoos. Large cockatoos are noticeably bigger, and include the umbrella, Moluccan, greater sulphur crest and triton. Smaller cockatoos include the bare eye, slender bill, Goffin’s, rose breast, lesser sulphur crest and citron.
Most people think of cockatoos as being all-white birds, yet they come in many colors. Moluccans are salmon colored, rose breasts are pink and gray, sulphur crests have yellow crest feathers as well as on the underside of their wings, and there are also black colored cockatoos (although they are rare as pets). These include the palm cockatoo and the gang-gang cockatoo.
If you are sensitive to dust and dander, a cockatoo might aggravate your sinuses, because they (along with cockatiels and African grey parrots) produce powder-down (fine dust particles composed of feathers that have broken down).
Cockatoos are extremely loving and social parrots!
Cockatoo Family :
Intelligent, playful, and enchantingly comical, they seem to know what beautiful creatures they are! They will display their wings, toss their heads and raise their erectile crests in a proud impressive display. Undoubtedly the friendliest and most loving of pet birds.
With an incredible need for physical attention, Cockatoos love being petted, hugged, and snuggled. A young bird's attachment and affectionate devotion to you requires that you make sure you have time to play with your pet each day. A neglected Cockatoo may resort to uncontrollable screaming or restless feather picking and these habits are very hard to break. Make sure they have plenty of toys!
Cockatoos are one of the most long-lived parrots. Though not outstanding in their ability to imitate speech, they exhibit some of the most intelligent behaviors of the entire parrot family.
Many species are actually considered a pest in their native country, Australia, where they travel together in large flocks. The cereal farmers are hard put too keep them away from bags of grain and out of the fields where they will dig up freshly planted seed. But as pesky as they are there, in the United States they are a favored valuable pet.
Cockatoo Care :
Bird Care and Information for All Types of Cockatoos
Cockatoos are extremely affectionate, their feathers are very soft and they have beautiful colors!
Types of Cockatoos:
There are 18 species of cockatoo (including the well-know cockatiel) and 37 sub-species, of these only a handful became well known due to importation restrictions.
Frequently kept types of cockatoos include:
Umbrella Cockatoo Cacatua alba, also known as the Umbrella-crested, White-crested, or Greater White-crested Cockatoo
Mollucan Cockatoo Cacatua moluccensis
Goffin's Cockatoo Cacatua goffini
Lesser Sulphur-crested Cockatoo Cacatua sulphurea sulphurea, also know as the Yellow-crested Cockatoo
Citron-crested Cockatoo Cacatua sulphurea citrinocristata
Greater Sulpher-crested Cockatoo Cacatua galerita galerita, also know as the Sulpher-crested Cockatoo
Triton Cockatoo Cacatua galerita triton
Bare-eyed Cockatoo Cacatua sanguinea, also known as Little Corella Cockatoo
Rose-Breasted Cockatoo Cacatua roseicapilla, also known as the Roseate Cockatoo or the Galah Cockatoo
Philippine Cockatoo Cacatua haematuropygia, also know as the Red-Vented Cockatoo
Goliath Palm Cockatoo Probosciger aterrimus goliath, also know as the Palm Cockatoo or the Goliath Cockatoo
Care and feeding:
Bird Food: A Cockatoo diet consisting of a basic large hookbill seed mix with supplements of sprouted seeds and all sorts of fruits and vegetables is generally regarded as suitable. Some examples of supplements are apples, pears, plums, raisons, oranges, bananas, peaches, carrots, broccoli, lettuce, chickweed, dandelions, and lots more! Do not feed avocado as it is toxic to birds! Occasional proteins can be offered such as cottage cheese, bits of cheese, hard boiled eggs, canned dog food, and cooked meat bones. Stay away from highly seasoned, fatty processed meats. Vitamins and minerals should not be necessary with a good varied diet except in times of change or stress. If your cockatoo has a tendency to destroy calcium blocks, as an alternative, calcium can be sprinkled on their food about once a week.
Water: Give you cockatoo fresh drinking water every day.
Bird Baths: Most cockatoos really do not need to be washed any more than a cat would. This is because they are extremely clean by nature and preen themselves regularly. They naturally produce a great deal of dust which aids in keeping their wings and skin healthy. However, a cockatoo's personal hygiene may include a weekly shower or bath to get rid of accumulated feather dust. For the bird, bathing is strictly an individual preference, as in the wild some cockatoos will enjoy standing in the rain while others will dive for cover. Bathing a cockatoo in anything other than plain water can change the pH of its feathers and may lead to troubles such as infections, or parasitic infestations like mites. A shower can be accomplished with either a hand held shower sprayer or a hose with a fine spray head and lukewarm water. A bath pan or ceramic dish 12"-14" (30-35 cm) can be placed on the bottom of the cage or mounted at about 39" (1m) above the floor in an aviary.
Bird Grooming: If cockatoos are not partnered with another bird, they will need assistance from their owners to preen. Scratch lightly in the direction of the feathers on the top of the heads, the neck area, and other areas they can't reach. This will help remove the clear feather sheaths from new feathers, as these can get itchy and uncomfortable. The wings should be kept trim if you want to discourage flight and to prevent the loss of your pet through an open window or door. The beak and claws need to be trimmed if they are not worn down from climbing and chewing. A variety of concrete type perches are available to help the keep nails trim, but they should still be trimmed if they become overgrown. Because cockatoos will demolish mineral blocks, lava blocks, and other beak grooming items in a matter of a few minutes, they won't work to keep beaks trim.
For cockatoos, the larger the enclosure you can provide, the better. The ideal size of any bird cage should be equal to at least 3 flight wingspans of the bird. Anything smaller is detrimental to the bird unless it has freedom outside the cage. A minimum size cage to house a small cockatoo is 27" x 27 " x 39" (70x70x100 cm), which should then be accompanied with regularly outside time for the bird to exercise. For larger cockatoos a larger cage must be considered.
Horizontal bars are important as your cockatoo needs to climb. Keep in mind that because of the strength of their beaks, cockatoos are able to bend bars and pop the joints on cages. For additional security on the cage door, a snap lock is recommended.
Bird Perch: Provide one or two perches about 3/4' in diameter and dishes hanging from the side for feed, water, and grit. Try to place the perches away from dishes so the food and water dish do not become soiled with bird droppings. Do not use plastic because your bird will chew and break the plastic and it can become hazardous.
Where to Place Bird Cages: Your cockatoo is very social and inquisitive, so the room you house your pet in must be a room that gets visited frequently by the family. Place the cage at eye level in a quiet sunny area away from drafts.
Indoor Aviaries: For a small cockatoo the minimum size of a suitable indoor aviary is about 39" x 39" x 78" (100x100x200 cm), and of course larger for the larger cockatoos.
Outdoor Aviaries: An outdoor or breeding aviary needs to have a protected shelter that can be heated and cooled where necessary and have a sand floor. An attached flight cage should be 78" x 117" x 78" (2x3x2 m) for small cockatoos, and of course bigger for larger cockatoos. One third of the flight cage should be covered. Equip the flight cage with a perch at each end. A climbing branch and a bird bath are nice additions too.
The basic cage care includes daily cleaning of the water and food dishes and wiping off the feather dust from the bars and perches. Twice weekly change the bottom trays and replace the soiled litter. Weekly you should wash all the perches and dirty toys and monthly you should clean the entire cage. A total hosing down and disinfecting of an aviary and flight should be done twice a year, replacing anything that needs to be freshened, such as old dishes, toys, perches, and the sand on the floor.
In the wild, all cockatoo species live together in flocks. Some species may flock in groups of only 8-10 birds while others species will flock in the thousands. This high socialization need has a profound affect on cockatoo behavior. If they don't get the necessary attention and interaction they can quickly become bored. A bored cockatoo will often develop bad habits like screaming and feather plucking, and these habits are extremely difficult to break.
Here are some guidelines to provide the best environment and promote good cockatoo behavior:
Keeping Single Cockatoo: Intelligent and highly inquisitive, coupled with a great need for companionship, shapes the cockatoo behavior. Cockatoos are constantly active and always up for playing and interacting with a friend. Keeping a single cockatoo will take serious commitment of time and attention from you for your pet to thrive. Each day you will need to spend a good deal of time playing with your cockatoo and sharing affections.
Keeping a Pair of Cockatoos: Because of their need to socialize, cockatoos are generally best kept in pairs. They also do fine with another bird of similar size for companionship. The main reason for pairing is so that they do not become so dependent on their keeper and their keepers time. The drawback to keeping a pair is that the noise will be much greater. Cockatoos love to play and will keep it up all day, but part of their play includes loud calls, which in some cases can turn into long earsplitting shrieks.
Cockatoos and Pets: Cockatoos and other pets, such as dogs and cats, may or may not develop a friendly relationship with each other. This is generally a "wait and see" situation. Other small animals such as rodents and small birds are best kept away from a cockatoo. If they fall prey to the cockatoo's beak, it can be fatal.
Cockatoos and Children: Never leave cockatoos unattended with babies or small children! Cockatoos can get very jealous of babies and small children. The child could get attacked by the cockatoo's beak or sharp claws so you should always be on your guard. Cockatoos and older children will often do fine, but even here it's a "wait and see" situation. You won't know for sure how they will get along until the relationship unfolds over time
The cockatoo is highly intelligent but they are not know as great talkers. Their ability to repeat some words or sounds can be accomplished with repeated training, but this is not the cockatoo's strength. Their outstanding ability comes from being great performers! This is demonstrated by such antics as dancing, playing tug-of-war, climbing, and shaking.
Cockatoos will use "tools", various objects and toys to play and perform with, such as roller skating. They are very inventive and if toys are not provided they will use what is at hand. Objects 'at hand' often take the form of their food dishes and perches.
Taming Basics: To be able to handle and train your cockatoo depends first on trust, so go slowly and be consistent. Taming and training is best done in a room with few distractions. A hand fed baby will not need much taming and can often be handled right away, as it is use to human attention.
Initial Training: Taming proceeds in steps, start with cage taming where you can approach your cockatoo's cage without it jumping off it's perch and heading to an opposite corner. You overcome this by talking to your pet with soothing words and slow gentle movements until it gets accustomed to you. Next is hand taming, where your cockatoo will climb on your hand and allow you to carry it around. You can accomplish this by offering it treats from outside the cage until it is comfortable with your hand. As your cockatoo becomes comfortable with taking treats from your hand, you then open the cage door and repeat the same process but now you are reaching into it's cage with the treat. Once you've earned it's trust, your cockatoo will begin climbing on your hand and allowing you to pet him.
Advanced Training: Other training, such as tricks and imitating speech will take patience and repeated efforts.
For an extensive parrot training system that potentially turns your bird into a fun, loving companion as well as learning lots of cool tricks, try Chet Womach's Parrot Training Course. Remember that taming and training a bird takes patience, never 'punish' your pet! This only serves to destroy the trust you've spent so much time building.
Exercise and play are important bird activities for the physical well being and psychological health of all cockatoos. They are extraordinarily playful. Cockatoos will play all day long with only short breaks for rest.
Getting out of the cage onto a playpen with lots of climbing branches is very important for the emotional well being of your pet. These activities help deter distress and prevent the problems of screeching and feather picking. Provide your parrot with lots of activities in the form of large link chains, bird ladders, parrot swings, ropes, fresh branches for gnawing and chewing, and rotate new bird toys on a regular basis.
When a new toy is introduced, your cockatoo will approach it warily.The bird will examine with caution and observe it from all sides. Once it has done this, it will accept and play with it for hours.
Cockatoos that have flight feathers will fly if they out of their cage. If you have a flight aviary, your cockatoo will love to fly between perches widely spaced apart. A cockatoo that is clipped cannot fly so it cannot use a flight aviary. It will take about a year for its feathers to grow back.
Because the cockatoos are threatened with extinction, successful breeding is helping to preserve the species and reduce the number of wild caught birds. There are no breeding regulations in the United States, Canada, or the United Kingdom, though other countries might have restrictions and you should consult with the authorities in your country before undertaking breeding.
Breeding cockatoos can be difficult and it is in not recommended for a beginner. The best success in breeding cockatoos in captivity started with the greater sulphur-crested, lesser sulphur-crested, and the rose-breasted cockatoos, though several others are now also being breed successfully.
Some basics for breeding cockatoos include:
Pairing Cockatoos: Pet cockatoos have a very difficult time getting used to a mate so are very hard to use for attempts at breeding. Establishing any harmonious cockatoo pair can be difficult. It is best to have several young birds together and let them pair naturally.
Sexing Cockatoos: Most cockatoo species are easily sexed. The lesser sulphur-crested, greater sulphur-crested, umbrella, Goffin's, rose-breasted and Philippine cockatoos have a red-brown, brown, or chestnut-brown iris in the female after about two years of age. The Mollucan is basically the same except the female iris is dark brown so it can be difficult to distinguish from the slightly darker iris of the male. Both sexes of the bare-eyed cockatoo have the dark iris, but the male is a larger bird and the female has more feathering around the eye than the male. Sometimes with the Bare-eyed and the Mollucan you can only be certain if you have them sexed by either a surgical probe, endoscopy, a DNA test, or a chromosonal analysis.
Breeding Environment: The best environment for breeding cockatoos is accomplished in an aviary. Place the cockatoo's square nesting box, or a round hollowed out tree trunk of the same approximate size, high in the aviary. On the bottom of the nest box, put a 4" (10 cm) layer of soft bedding such as wood shavings. The nesting box for a small cockatoo should be 10"-12" (25-30 cm) wide x 23"-31" (60-80 cm) high, with a hole size of 4" (10-12 cm). For a medium cockatoo it should be 12"-14" (30-35 cm) wide x 31"-39" (80-100 cm) high, with a hole size of 4"-5" (10-12 cm). For the larger cockatoos it should be 14"-18" (35-45 cm) wide x 47"-59" (120-150 cm) high with a hole size of 5"-6" (12-15 cm).
Egg Laying and Hatchlings:The cockatoo female will lay between 2 to 3 eggs. Brooding, depending on which species, is between 25 to 30 days. The young are naked and blind when hatched and don't open their eyes for several weeks. Hatchlings take between 60 and 100 days to become fully plumed and at that time they will begin to explore outside of the nest. However they will still be dependent for another two to three weeks before ready leave the nest for good.
A cockatoo that is well cared for will seldom become ill. Though it is often difficult to determine illness, some visible signs of illness can be plumage that is lusterless, ruffled, or has bare spots. Other signs may be having no appetite, sneezing, discharge from the nostrils, slit eyes instead of round, the bird sleeps a lot resting on both feet instead of having one foot tucked up, develops movements of neurotic screaming, begins feather plucking, and any change in the feces.
Some of the common illnesses your cockatoo could contract are parasites, intestinal inflammation, coccidiosis, respiratory ailments, feather picking, and parrot fever also known as psittacosis which is not common but is contagious to humans and can be dangerous.
Isolate the bird in a hospital cage with an infrared lamp placed about 23" (60 cm) distance from the cage. If it does not perk within 24 hours, the ailing parrot should be taken to a avian veterinarian for diagnosis and treatment.
Behavior problems usually stem from something missing in the bird's environment. Cockatoos are particularly vulnerable to feather plucking because of their intense need for socialization. Boredom, lack of trust, lack of interaction with other birds or people can lead to problems like biting, feather plucking, and screaming. Try to develop a bond of trust and spend time with your bird to help avoid these problems. We have also had good success with Chet Womach's Parrot Training Course. He offers free 3-day introductory course so you can try it out before you buy anything.
Several cockatoo species are readily available in the pet industry. You should be able to find cockatoos for sale from a pet store. You can also find cockatoos for sale from bird breeders, bird farms, and often on-line. There are many hand fed babies becoming increasingly available.
Cockatoos are among those birds that are endangered or threatened with extinction. There is an export ban on all birds from Australia, so young birds available for public sale in the United States today are captive bred birds.
Types of Cockatoos :
A happy cockatoo is a chewing cockatoo, so provide lots of toys and things to chew on so he doesn't chew on himself :
(( click on the name or photo to guide to the animal world.com database ))
Cockatoos Breeding :
Breeding birds is not as simple as it sounds, and breeding your cockatoo is a decision that should only be made after a lot of research and talking with experienced breeders. To safeguard the health of your bird and his or her offspring, you need to be able to handle any situation you encounter.
Make sure you have the time and money necessary, as well as easy access to an experienced avian veterinarian. Also make sure you already have homes lined up for the new babies. If you are properly prepared, breeding can be a positive experience.
If you want to breed your cockatoo, make sure they are mature and healthy. Breeding birds need to bond and get use to their surroundings. The birds must be well fed and their new spacious cage must be clean.
Most cockatoos breed well in captivity, but some species do not. In North America, the predominant breeding season is winter and spring, although some pairs may produce year round. Breeding age can be as young as three years, but hand-reared birds may not begin breeding before they are 8 to 10 years old, especially hand-fed males. The breeding life span of most cockatoos is not precisely known but is possibly up to 30-plus years.
The breeding cage should be large enough to allow some limited flight between perches. One inch by one inch 12-gauge welded wire is a good choice for cage construction. A suggested size is 4 feet wide by 4 feet tall by 8 feet long suspended 4 feet above the ground or floor.
Male cockatoos may become aggressive toward their mates. Fatal attacks may occur in which the male bird severely bites the face, wings, and legs of the female. Clipping the wings of the male prior to the breeding season will help the female to escape in case the male becomes aggressive. Aggressive behavior may occur in compatible breeding pairs.
Note When breeding any cockatoos, noise and proximity to neighbors must be considered. If housed outdoors, cockatoos often call at night, especially during a full moon. In southern states outdoor caging must be protected from opossums to prevent exposure to the parasite Sarcocystis falcatula which can result in a fatal lung infection.
Nest Boxes :
Double-entrance nest boxes are often used to reduce the chance of the male trapping the female in the box. Large wooden boxes can be used; size should be approximately 18 inches by 18 inches by 24 inches. Metal barrels, plastic pickle barrels and garbage cans can also be used. Grandfather-style wooden boxes can be used for certain cockatoo species since some species like a deep, narrow nest. Size should be approximately 12 inches by 12 inches by 24 inches or 12 inches by 12 inches by 36 inches. The size of the nest box will vary depending on the size of the adult bird.
Clutch size is typically two to three eggs. Incubation period is approximately 24 to 26 days, and chicks will usually fledge at approximately 12 to 14 weeks of age. Many cockatoos are relatively easy to hand-rear. Most hand-rearing formulas can be used successfully; however, if you are using a formula relatively high in fat, care must be taken not to overfeed the chick.
Care of Chicks :
You will need to check the nesting box every day to make sure the chicks are being fed properly. Offer fresh food and plenty of water daily. If the parents care for their young, you will not have to worry too much. However, first time or inexperienced parents may not care for their young, and you have to care for them.
Hand-rearing chicks takes time and the right equipment. You may need to place them in an incubator and hand feed them every 2 hours (commercial diets are available, to which you just add water). The feeding technique is not difficult to learn, but you should have your avian veterinarian show you how to do it properly. This is a critical period in the life of the new birds and it is during this time you may encounter a high rate of complications and mortality.
Soon the new chicks will slowly start to pick at smaller (cracked) seeds you offer. Once you are sure they can eat by themselves, it is time to separate the chicks, some sooner than others, from the parents and start the taming the process.
How to breed Cockatoos. From A-Z (Mating Sex)
Breeding Your Cockatoo
Cockatoo Health :
Common Cockatoo Health Concerns
Find out what health issues cockatoos are prone to
By Rebecca Sweat
While cockatoos can come down with most of the same diseases as any other type of bird, they are prone to certain illnesses. Here’s what veterinarians generally say are the most common health problems in cockatoos:
Psittacine beak and feather disease (PBFD)
Caused by a circovirus that attacks the cells of the immune system and cells that produce the beak and feathers. “Essentially, it results in poor feather growth and feathers that don’t replace themselves when they fall out,” said Dr. Alex Rosenwax, an avian veterinarian in Sydney, Australia. In addition, the beak may become fragile and not repair itself. Because the virus targets the center of the developing bird’s immune system, infected birds often become immunocompromised and die of secondary infections — either bacterial, viral or fungal. Currently, there is no known cure for PBFD. Infected birds usually die a few months to a year after showing clinical symptoms of the disease.
Cockatoos, particularly the rose-breasted (Galah) cockatoo, seem to be genetically pre-disposed to obesity. High-fat diets and lack of activity can further exacerbate the problem. An overweight cockatoo may have difficulty breathing, joint and bone stress, as well as a greater probability of diabetes, pancreatitis, liver disease, atherosclerosis and heart disease. Feeding a pelleted-base diet and providing your cockatoo with daily, rigorous exercise are the best preventative steps you can take.
Fatty Liver Disease:
One of the most common health problem associated with obesity is fatty liver disease (hepatic lipidosis). In birds, the liver stores energy in the form of fat. As an increasing amount of fat is stored there, liver cells are lost. “The bird’s liver will literally replace itself with fat,” noted Florida veterinarian, Dr. Don Harris. “A point may be reached at which there is not enough functional liver left to support life, and the bird will die.”
Another problem associated with obesity is lipomas — benign fatty tumors that usually appear on the lower part of a bird’s abdomen. Lipomas are seen in all cockatoos, but especially the rose-breasted and sulphur-crested species. They are not normally fatal but can cause the bird discomfort if they become ulcerated or grow too large. Treatment may involve surgical removal or dietary restrictions to reduce the tumor’s size.
This health problem is characterized by lameness, swelling of the bird’s foot and lesions that discharge a milky-colored ooze. The cause is usually a combination of dirty perches, unsanitary cages and poor nutrition. A diet high in a natural source of vitamin A can help lesions heal quicker as well as help keep a bird’s immune system stronger. If left untreated, bumblefoot can result in the loss of the bird’s toes or feet.
Feather Picking and Self-mutilation
Anytime a bird shows signs of either disorder, it should be taken to a veterinarian for a thorough examination. Often, there’s another health problem that’s the root cause, such as aspergillosis, worms or lice infestations, PBFD or a bacterial infection. Once the physical causes are ruled out, then behavioral issues can be addressed.
Feather picking not attributed to a medical cause is an obsessive-compulsive disorder in which a bird picks at, plucks out or chews on its feathers. Self-mutilation is a disorder where a bird chews on its own flesh, typically on the breast area or toes. As the bird chews on itself, nerve and tissue damage can result, causing increased discomfort, which may cause the bird to chew even more. Both disorders can be caused by household stress, boredom or sexual frustration. “The cockatoo may have inadequate space in which to exercise and fly, or needs companionship and entertainment,” said Dr. Alex Rosenwax, BVSc, MACVSc, an avian veterinarian in Sydney, Australia.
Common Cockatoo Diseases :
Respiratory Signs, Chronic Depression, Weightloss:
Behavioral Problems due to their dependent nature.
Behavior problems: Self-mutilating cockatoos chew their bodies open, especially the chest and legs. This is extremely difficult to cure.
Localized Herpes Infections: Wart-like growths or areas of white discoloration on feet.
Blood Parasites: Microscopic and tape worms. These parasites may be associated with kidney disease, and most of these birds are immunosuppressed.
Bad Feather / Beak Condition; Missing and Misshapen Feathers: Beak and Feather Disease (PBFD). A deadly, highly contagious (air-borne disease). Only supportive treatment available. No cure.
Cloacal Prolapse: Normally resolved through surgery. Affected birds should not be used for breeding.
Cockatoos are Susceptible to the Following Diseases:
Tumors: Tumors can be benign or malignant (cancerous) and can involve any organ or system. Some species of birds tend to develop benign fatty tumors called "Lipomas."
Lipomas are commonly seen in overweight Amazon Parrot, Rose-breasted Cockatoos and Budgies. It seems that older budgies are more prone to tumors of the ovary, testicle or kidney, which may eventually put pressure on the sciatic nerve on the affected side, resulting in lameness of the foot or leg.
Fibromas are tumors found on the wing and they may need to be surgically removed. In some instances, amputation of the wing may be necessary.
Cockatoos can come down with most of the same diseases as other parrots, but they are prone to certain illnesses.