Other websites about the differences between tropical & hardy water lilies :
In the photo at the right you see the separated plantlet and the tuber side by side. If you notice there is already new growth on the tuber at this time, forming new plantlets that can be grown on for a few weeks until they are large enough to also be removed from the tuber.
It is at this point that you would pot up your tuber and the new plantlet. A small nursery pot is sufficient for the first few weeks until the tuber produces new growth and in the other pot the plantlet becomes pot bound. The new plantlet can then be potted up to its final growing pot and placed out in the pond to flourish. Now let's not forget about the tuber that we potted back up.
The Difference Between Tropical and Hardy Waterlilies?
courtesy to : www.victoria-adventure.org/waterlilies/differences.htmlBy Kit Knotts
There are two main types of waterlilies that we can select for our ponds, tropicals and hardies. For details about how they are grouped by the scientists see our Waterlily Family Tree but, for most of our purposes, a description of their characteristics is enough.
The main thing that differentiates them for the grower is COLD! Tropical waterlilies don't like it and hardies tolerate it. Though all will go dormant in cold conditions, the rootstock of many hardies can survive in water just short of freezing solid. Where icing over is a threat, the tubers of tropicals must be removed from the pond and stored in moist cool to warm conditions to come back in future years. In warm climates they can remain in the pond.
This does not mean that hardies won't grow well in the south and tropicals won't grow well in the north. They will! Popular varieties of both are very tolerant of wide variability in temperatures and conditions. It is more a matter of style that should aid you in your selections.
Tropical Day Bloomers
Flowers - Colors include white, all shades of pink, yellow, autumn, blue, purple and undertones of green. All stand above the water and shapes are usually starry but some varieties are more cupped.
Hardies (All day bloomers)
Flowers - Colors include white, all shades of pink, yellow and changeable autumn. Many, though not all, float on the surface of the water and many are cup-shaped with some starry.
Growth Habit - Tropicals grow from a single central crown. All leaves and flowers radiate from this point and growth is vertical.
Growth Habit - Hardies grow horizontally from and along a fleshy rhizomatous rootstock. "Eyes" at points along the rhizome produce new crowns.
Pads - Tropical pads are usually somewhat thin with edges slightly scalloped or toothy. They can be plain green, flecked, mottled or whorled with maroon or bronze.
Pads - Hardy pads are rather thick and leathery with smooth edges. Most are plain green though many are lightly mottled with maroon when young. The exception is 'Arc-en-ciel' which is green, pink and maroon.
Propagation - From tuber and division for exact duplication, from seed for variation. In some varieties known as "viviparous", from new plants produced on the leaves.
Propagation - From division for exact duplication, from seed for variation.
We also include the characteristics of tropical night blooming lilies since they are a little different from day bloomers and we include N. mexicana, classified as a hardy but quite different from the rest of them! We don't recommend growing it because it is fairly undistinguished and can be invasive but it is a VERY important parent of many of our best hardy cultivars.
Tropical Night Bloomers
N. mexicana (hardy day bloomer)
Flowers - Colors are limited to white, all shades of pink and nearly red. All stand above the water.
Flowers - Yellow opening only in the afternoon. N. mexicana 'Cape Canaveral' has larger flowers.
Growth Habit - Night bloomers grow from a single central crown like day bloomers but multiply easily. Though multiple crowns can be desirable in large pots, too many "pups" will prevent the main crowns from attaining good size and bloom.
Growth Habit - N. mexicana grows from a central crown but spreads by runners which make new plants along them. Junctions in these runners can have little "bunches of bananas" that can also make new plants.
Pads - N. mexicana pads are rather thin with wavy edges. They are lightly splotched with maroon.
Pads - Night bloomer pads have very toothy edges and often show more venation than day bloomers. They can be green, but are more often bronze-green to deep mahogany.
Propagation - From tuber and division for exact duplication, from seed for variation.. Night bloomers often make short runners from large tubers and then make new plants.
Tropical Water Lilies Planting & Growing Instructions
Tropical water lilies come in a wide spectrum of colors: purple, blue, red, pink, peach, orange, white and yellow or a mixture of some or all the colors. Mainly all tropical water lilies are medium and large varieties but one can grow almost any tropical in a one-gallon container to keep it small; and, if fertilized properly, the plant will bloom well. All tropical water lily flowers come up well above the water surface while the leaves rest on the water surface. Tropical water lilies are classified as being day blooming, night blooming, viviparous or non-viviparous. Be careful when deciding on the tropical water lily of choice and make sure to take in consideration day or night blooming water plants. We have put a brief description by each water lily, stating the size, spread and proper water depth, plus whether it is night blooming, day blooming, etc.
Tropical Water Lilies are true to their name: they do not do well in the winter in very cold climates. If a pond freezes and stays frozen all day, then it’s probably too cold to over winter them outside. But tropicals will grow perfectly fine just about anywhere once temperatures get warm -- warm meaning water temperatures above 65 degrees Fahrenheit at night and days above 80. Water lilies as a whole like to have direct sunlight but if outside temperatures get up into the high 90’s, then water lilies will prefer to be in the shade. Almost all will tolerate 50% of shade even with average temperature growing conditions which is 65 to 95 degrees. Tropical water lilies will outperform hardy water lilies by blooming, growing and staying up twice as much and long compared to hardy water lilies.
Texas Water Lilies ships using US Postal Service priority mail for a 2-to-3-day service. We usually ship Monday-Wednesday so packages are not held up over the weekend. TWL takes great pride in the growing, picking, packing and shipping process. We grow all of our own plants and pick them fresh daily, keeping the water lilies at room temperature (warm in the winter and refrigerated in the summer months). Every afternoon we hand deliver the water lilies in a refrigerated vehicle to the local post office for shipping, keeping the plants fresh and cool. We ship the water lilies bare root and will usually place the water lilies into a large zip-lock bag (every bag is labeled with the variety name) and add a little moister for shipping. Then they will be placed into a small shipping box, about the size of a shoe box or larger. Newspaper is used around the zip-lock bag for insulation and for cushion.
Once water lilies are received, they must be planted ASAP (especially if the weather is hot and the plant has broken dormancy). If one is not prepared to plant right away, one may float the hardy water lilies in a pond or large bucket, but the longer the plants are left out of the water, the more they will go into shock. If the water lily is still dormant, planting may be delayed for weeks before damage to the plant occurs. If the outside temperatures are hot, the plants need to be kept in an air conditioned room.
The plant will usually be well established and will have broken dormancy when temperatures are hot. One should never place a water plant in direct sun without water. This may kill the water lily in a matter of minutes.
One can plant most hardy water lilies in almost any type of container. A strong plastic container is recommended so it will not crack or come apart. One must make sure the container is at least 6 inches tall. Larger varieties need to go into a 2-to-10 gallon container. The smaller water plants can be planted in as small as a 3/4-to-1-gallon container. If the container has holes at the bottom cover the holes with a couple of layers of newspaper before adding the soil. The newspaper will hold the dirt in place for about a month or two. By then the roots will hold the soil in place.
Once ready to plant, get your pot and put in your planting medium. Make sure to have at least 5 inches of dirt in the container. One can use almost any type of top-soil: yard dirt, heavy loam, etc, but the best stuff to use is river bottom dirt that usually has a heavy clay base. That stuff is packed full of nutrients. Don’t use potting soil, mulch, peat moss, cow-manure compost or humus. Leave that stuff for yard plants or non-aquatic plants.
Fill the pot all the way up to 1-to-2 inches from the top. Wet the dirt thoroughly with water soaking it. Plant the rhizome on the side of the pot in the horizontal position. Make sure the crown is facing towards the center. The root should be planted down into the dirt enough so that the rhizome is barely covered. If the rhizome is planted any deeper than a couple of inches, the water lily stands a good chance of dying. Adding pea-gravel or flat rocks on top of the dirt may prevent fish from disturbing the dirt once planted.
Then, simply place into desired spot in pond. Again, the larger varieties will grow in 1.5-to-2.5-feet of water; the smaller ones, in 6 inches to 1 foot. This measurement is taken from the top of the soil to the top of the water. The container can be elevated your by using a center block from a local hardware store. They only cost about $1.50 and they are a perfect elevator (they measure 8”x8”x16”) It is recommended to wait a week or two before fertilizing. Make sure a slow release pond tab is used, designed for aquatics.
The rule of thumb is one tab per gallon container. Fertilize every 3-to-4 weeks. Make sure to push the pill down into the container on the sides as far as your finger will reach. Then, cover the hole up after fertilizing. Make the roots find the tab. Don’t ever place tabs directly into main rhizome. If you don’t fertilize, then the desired results will be displayed while they grow in a container. Do not fertilize when the plants are going dormant or are in the dormant state.
More and more people are planting their plants in pockets at the bottom of their pond. Some soil may have to be added into those pockets, before planting. Then cover dirt and plant roots with small rocks. Make sure to have some fish to make some home made fertilizer or you may have to push in fertilizer tabs every month or so. Sometimes large Koi will get a taste for aquatic plants. Once they do, they’ll continue to eat the plants. Gold fish usually will never eat the water lilies.
If planting hardy water lilies in an earthen pond, one can plant them in a container or simply plant them directly into the pond. It is recommended planting them directly into the pond. If this is done, there is no need to fertilize, repot or separate in the spring. All one would have to do is “literally watch them grow”. Make sure to simply push the rhizome into the muddy mucky bottom of your pond, just enough to hold the plant down, with the top of the rhizome facing up. If they are not anchored properly they will float and go somewhere you may not desire them to be. With some ponds, one may have to use a little shovel or large knife to break the bottom enough to plant. If the earthen pond has no nutrients at all, one may have to add in some fertilizer tabs.
Once established in an earthen pond Tropical Water Lilies will bloom year round. In TWL outdoor ponds, the temperatures reach freezing points about 40 times per year but the ponds hardly ever have any ice all day long.
Once tropical water lilies are established the leaves and flowers will attract bugs so it would be in order to spray or dust with some type of bug killer. Very light applications are recommended frequently (about every 2 weeks). This process should not hurt your animal life in the pond if used moderately.
The main way tropical water lilies reproduce (and stay true to there name) is by producing tubers or by making babies off there viviparous leaves. Viviparous tropical water lilies will produce new plants off their leaves once the plant is well established. Some Viviparous tropicals will produce many babies and some not so much. It really depends on the variety. At TWL, we have one viviparous Tropical planted in an earth bottom tank that produces about 200 babies every year. The other way tropicals reproduce is by making tubers. Tropical water lily tubers are black and are about the size of a marble to a golf ball. The plant will make tubers sometimes on there own but not many. Tubes are usually made by starving the tropical water lily. TWL does so by growing them in small containers feeding them frequently during the growing season and then stop feeding them in the fall. TWL has found this is the best method of producing tubers. One tuber will make 2-to-10 plants a year if one plays with it. Tropical tubers are worth more than the actual plant because it will not die and it will produce many offspring.
It is recommended repotting every year, using fresh virgin soil. If the pond is in a warmer climate, all one has to do is wait until the temperature warms up. Once the year’s hard freezes stop during the spring, it’s time to repot. Just take the lily out of its pot, dump it up side down and wash away all the dirt. The tuber should be in plain sight; and, if one is lucky, possibly more than one. Plant the new mother plant just as if you have received one in the mail. If located in colder climates, stop fertilizing a few weeks before it starts freezing. Then wait until there is a hard freeze, at this time the tropical will go dormant. Once dormant, pull the pot out, dump it over and wash away the dirt with water hose. The tuber should be found once it is washed off well, then place tuber in a zip-lock bag. Try to take the air out as much as possible. Put some moist sand in bag and store in a cool dark place. A closet would work just fine. Packed this way the tuber will last for several months sometimes years. Plant the tubers once hard freezes are over in the spring.
Water lilies are washed and wrapped in moist newspaper before boxing.
Other Websites about Care of water Lilies :
TROPICAL WATER LILIES
How to plant a tropical water lily
Planting Tropical Waterlily with Tim Davis Fertilizing Waterlilies
Propagating a tropical water lily
Viviparous Tropical Water Lilies: Protect Baby Plant With Another Leaf
Viviparous Tropical Water Lilies: Baby Plant is Clone of Parent
Tropical Waterlily Tuber Propagation
by Sean Stevens
Tropical waterlilies may be propagated by more than just viviparous propagation...
Here is a tutorial on how to take starts from tropical waterlily tubers.
Tropical waterlilies can be propagated by many means and this one method is the most common amongst tropical waterlily growers.
New tropical waterlilies will grow and bloom all year long showing wonderful displays of color above the surface of the water but as the days progress something remarkable is happening under the soil. A tropical waterlily will produce a tuber that the plant uses to sustain itself in times of drought allowing the plant a chance at survival. In times of drought in the waterlilies natural habitat what happens is the pads will die off and the tuber will remain below the soil and becomes quite nut-like, protecting the tuber through the dry season. Once the rains return and the tuber becomes moist again it will send up new growth from the terminal crown and a new plant will be born.
Now, as tropical waterlily hobbyists, we can duplicate this natural process and utilize the tuber to produce additional waterlilies from the same tuber. Once new growth begins to show itself on the tuber and there are visible roots, the new plantlet can be removed from the tuber to form a new plant which in time will also form its own tuber.
Here is a picture of what the growth would look like when it is time to pinch the new plantlet from the tuber.
Notice that the plantlet has sufficient roots to sustain the new start once it is removed from the tuber to help it grow on. Removing the start any sooner would be futile since the plantlet needs the roots to provide nutrition to the plantlet for good growth and assurance of health.
This photo shows the area where the roots join up to the plantlet. These roots are not actually sustaining the tuber but are in fact attached to the plantlet itself. Just below the root zone is where you will pinch off the plantlet from the tuber. Great care must be taken to achieve this operation or you could kill the new plantlet by severing it in the wrong place.
A gentle pinch and twist is all that is required to remove the plantlet from the tuber. Notice that the roots are still attached to the plantlet. This is a successful tuber separation.
Sometimes as shown at the left you will have more than one plantlet growing from the tuber. In this case I did remove the second plantlet because it also has root growth that was sufficient to sustain the new plantlet.
This picture is from one week later. As you can see there are three new plantlets forming. In a couple of weeks they will be large enough to be pinched from the tuber and also grown on to flourish and produce tubers of their own.
One final note on propagating tropical lilies by this method. Sooner or later the propagating tuber will become exhausted and stop producing new starts. If utilized for too long the tuber would surely die. I recommend figuring that a good number of starts to expect from a tuber in one season is from 3 to 5. After that you should consider that your tuber is tired and needs to get some vitality back. By leaving one start on the tuber, potting it up and leaving it to grow on for the rest of the season, the plantlet will feed the mother propagating tuber and nurse it back to health as well as form an additional tuber on the plantlet. Given a good season to be nursed back to health, the propagating tuber can be removed and the process started over again for additional plants.
I would urge everyone to try this method of propagating so you can share your lilies with others and give yourself a chance to trade and collect other exciting specimens you do not have in your collection.
Other websites about propagation :
Pond Plants guide
Ponds Plants Types:
Pond Plants guide
Ponds Plants Types: